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ENGLAND IN 1815 

AS SEEN BY 
A YOUNG BOSTON MERCHANT 




JOSEPH BALLARD 
From a water-color portrait painted by John Rubens Smith in 1813 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

AS SEEN 

BY A YOUNG BOSTON MERCHANT 

BEING 
THE REFLECTIONS AND COMMENTS 

OF 

JOSEPH BALLARD 

ON 

A TRIP THROUGH GREAT BRITAIN 

IN THE 

YEAR OF WATERLOO 




BOSTON AND NEW YORK 

HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY 

1913 



^K 



1? 



IP 



COPYRIGHT, I913, BY GEORGE U. CROCKER 
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 



FIVE HUNDRED AND TWENTY-FIVE 

NUMBERED COPIES PRINTED 

AT THE RIVERSIDE PRESS, CAMBRIDGE 

IN MARCH, 1913 

no. SZh 



©CI.A343781 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Joseph Ballard Frontispiece V 

From the water-color portrait painted by John 
Rubens Smith in 1813. 



The Ship "Friendship" of Salem. A 
Typical Packet of the Day ... 3 

From a painting. 

Advertisement of Sailing of the Ship 
"Liverpool Packet" 6 

From the Boston Gazette of February 27, 1815. 

Boston Harbor in 1823 from City Point . 181 

From an old engraving. 



y 



IOTBODUCTION 

THIS journal has a personal interest to 
Mr. Ballard's descendants as being the 
work of their ancestor, but they have published 
it in the hope that it may be found to be of 
interest to others as a picture of the life and 
times in England in the year of the battle of 
Waterloo, as seen through the eyes of a patri- 
otic young American. 

Joseph Ballard was born June 2, 1789, on 
Bromfield's Lane, formerly Rawson's Lane, 
now Bromfield Street, in Boston, where his 
father conducted a livery and hack business, 
having established the first hackney carriage 
in Boston. In 1795, the family moved to West 
Street, which was then considered far uptown, 
and in 1824, Mr. Ballard purchased a house 
on Washington Street, near Hollis Street, 
where he continued to live for fifty-three years 
until his death in 1877. 

Mr. Ballard's school education ended when 
he was fourteen years old, at which time he 
[ vii ] 



INTRODUCTION 

received a Franklin Medal at the hands of 
President John Adams in Faneuil Hall. In 
1803, he became an apprentice to Standfast 
Smith, an Englishman, who was a dealer in 
carpets, cutlery, upholstery goods, and other 
household wares in Franklin Street. At the 
end of his apprenticeship, Mr. Ballard and his 
brother John became partners of Mr. Smith. 
Later the firm was J. and J. Ballard, and, 
afterwards, Ballard and Prince. The firm was 
located at No. 168 Washington Street from 
1822 to 1846, when it moved to No. 11 Brom- 
field Street. 

One of Mr. Ballard's boyhood friends and 
fellow apprentices was S. F. B. Morse, who 
later became noted as a portrait painter in Eng- 
land, and afterwards famous as the inventor of 
the Morse telegraph system and alphabet. 

Mr. Ballard retired from the active manage- 
ment of his business at middle age, and devoted 
the remainder of his long life to his family, his 
books, and his farm at Hampton, New Hamp- 
shire, where he spent more than six months of 
every year. He was twice married. He was left a 
widower with three young children in 1822. He 
[ viii ] 



INTRODUCTION 

married again in 1824, and lived for fifty-three 
years with his second wife, who survived him. 

A century ago, opportunity for education 
was limited. Books were scarce and libraries 
few. Mr. Ballard, however, after leaving school, 
found the opportunity to educate himself by 
reading The Spectator, The Gentleman's Mag- 
azine, Cook's Voyages, and similar books, and, 
at the same time, he evidently attended to the 
arduous duties of an apprentice with fidelity. 

It is interesting to conjecture whether at 
twenty-six years of age, when this journal was 
written, he would have acquired a greater abil- 
ity to express his thoughts, a more considerable 
knowledge of social, political, and economic 
conditions, and a keener power of observation 
if he had had the advantage of modern educa- 
tional methods. 

Joseph Ballard Crocker. 

December, 1912. 



JOURNAL OF JOSEPH BALLARD 



MARCH 12— NOVEMBER 9, 1815 




ON Sunday the twelfth day of March One 
Thousand Eight Hundred and Fifteen, 
I sailed from Boston on board the Ship Liver- 
pool Packet, Samuel Nickels commander, bound 
for Liverpool, England. My fellow passen- 
gers were Messrs. Barnett, Bangs, Blanchard, 
Webster, 1 Wheelock, Plumer, Wright, White 
and Nielson. 2 The weather was remarkably fine 

1 Professor J. W. Webster, convicted of murdering Dr. 
George Parkman on November 23, 1849, and later hanged. 

2 The Boston Daily Advertiser of March 13, 1815, gives 
list of passengers as follows : — 

Samuel S. Barnett, Joseph Ballard, Isaac Bangs, Charles 
Blanchard, Jr., John W. Webster, George Wheelock, George 
Wright, and William B. White, all of Boston, Nathan 
Plummer of Newport and J. C. Neilson of Baltimore. 

[ 3 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

and appeared likely to continue so, but early 
in the afternoon there came on a gale of wind 
with bad weather which lasted with very little 
interruption until we arrived in the mouth of 
the Channel. For twenty days scarcely a day 
passed without snow, hail or rain, and none 
without a gale of wind. The cold was exceed- 
ingly unpleasant to the passengers as the wind 
prevented our having a fire in the cabin, blow- 
ing down the funnel in such a manner as to 
fill the cabin full of smoke. I suffered more 
than any other from seasickness, the horrid dis* 
agreeable sensations of which I think I shall ever 
remember. In four days however I was perfectly 
hearty and well, which I attribute to fasting as 
many of the rest suffered longer from having 
eaten while the sickness was upon them. 

A few days out we discovered a large island 
of ice computed to be two miles long and eighty 
or ninety feet out of water. This alarmed us 
very much for although we were gratified by 
the singular beauty of its appearance, yet much 
was subtracted from that gratification by our 
sense of danger. We were obliged to be ex- 
tremely cautious in keeping a good lookout as 
[ * ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

our commander was apprehensive of running 
upon it in the night. 

On the 29th we experienced a tremendous 
gale of wind. The waves ran mountain high, 
and presented a scene so terribly grand as to 
surpass all description : then I would have 
gladly exchanged our gilded palace of a cabin 
for the meanest hovel in creation. I do not 
know a scene in which a man can be placed 
wherein he appears in one view more insignifi- 
cant and at the same time in another more 
powerful, — To view the wide expanse of waters 
furiously agitated by the storm, and to contrast 
his best efforts with the power of the elements, 
shows his insignificance ; — when we see him 
by his nautical skill baffling the force of these 
elements we are astonished at his power ! * 

At night the gale still continuing we were 
gratified by a most magnificent and sublime 
sight. Hundreds of black fish from eighteen to 
twenty feet in length were sporting amid the 
" mountain waves." Their appearance when 
first seen very much resembled a drove of hogs, 
their bellies being of a dirty white color. Dur- 

* The following extract from Southey is appropriate to 
C 5 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

ing the storm the fears of us fresh water sailors 
was not a little augmented by the solicitude ex- 
pressed in the countenance of one of our fellow 
passengers who on a former voyage was upset 
in a vessel and after remaining upon the wreck 
for ten days was providentially rescued from 
death by a vessel passing that way. One of his 
fellow seamen was torn in pieces by a huge 
shark before his eyes, and he suffered every- 
thing that human nature could bear and yet 
exist. 

We passed our time very pleasantly when it 
did not blow a tempest. Books, conversation 
and cards served to fill up the vacuity of time. 

my sensations upon this day and better descriptive of them 
than any observations of my own : 

" 'Tis pleasant by the cheerful hearth to hear 
Of tempests, and the dangers of the deep : 
And pause at times : and feel that we are safe, 
Then — listen to the perilous tale again, 
And with an eager and suspended soul : 
Woo terror to delight us. But to hear 
The warring of the raging elements 
To know all human skill, all human strength 
Avail not, to look round and only see 
The mountain wave, incumbent with its weight 
Of bursting waters : on the reeling bark : 
Oh God ! this is indeed a dreadful thing : 
And he who hath endured the horror once 
Of such an hour, doth never hear the storm 
Howl round his home : but he remembers it 
And thinks upon the suffering mariner." 

[ 6 ] 




For Liverpool, 
The well known, regular trading 1 
copperbottomed shipLIVERPOOL 
PACKET, Samuel Nickles, com- 
mander, will positively sail in ballast trim, as 
soon as the ratification of the treaty is known. — 
The ship having been a regular trader to Liver- 
pool, is provided with excellent accommodations 
for passengers. For terms of freight or passage, 
apply to the master on board at Russell' s-wharf, 
or to LemuelPope, Jr. Ship Broker, No. 22,State- 
street. feb 2() 

FROM THE BOSTON GAZETTE 
FEBRUARY 27, 1815 



The ship Liverpool Packet was built at Charlestown, Mass., 
in 1810. 

Length 108 feet 9 in. 

Breadth 28 " 8 in. 

Depth 14 " 4 in. 

Tonnage 395?,? Gross. 

Owned by Samuel Nickels and Samuel Norwood of Boston. 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Once in a while we held a court of justice 
where offences against the dignity of the ship 
were tried, and the culprits fined in sundry 
bottles of wine to be paid at Liverpool : they 
being obliged to find security for the liberty 
of the ship until their arrival at that place. 
These and other pleasantries served to amuse 
us. 

April 4th we fell in with sixty sail of Eng- 
lish vessels under convoy of the Musquito, — brig 
of war from whom we were boarded. They had 
heard a rumor of peace and the officer appeared 
highly rejoiced at our confirming it. Our mate 
went on board with the ship's papers and the 
captain's compliments offering to furnish their 
commander with refreshment. After a short 
detention he returned with the British captain's 
steward to whom we gave some fowls and news- 
papers. I gave the boarding officer some of my 
papers as he observed he should not get a peep 
at the " old man's." The next morning we were 
chased by a frigate who compelled us to heave 
to after firing her bow guns at us several times. 
It was vexatious in the extreme to be thus de- 
tained with a fair wind, but as " might gave 
[ 7 J 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

right " we were forced to comply. When she 
came up with us she proved to be the La Pique 
of 36 guns mounting 45. We had a full view 
of her as she passed directly under our stern. 
She appeared to be a very beautiful vessel. The 
British lieutenant soon made his appearance 
upon our quarter deck, and was invited by our 
captain down into the cabin. He first asked if 
peace was certain, and was pleased with our 
answering in the affirmative. Speaking of the 
treaty he asked " what had become of the south- 
ern states" (presuming, I suppose, that the 
northern ones had made a separate treaty). In 
the reply something was said respecting the 
New Orleans affair, when he changed the con- 
versation by a remark upon the weather. The 
convoy of ships they had with them were from 
St. Thomas' and consisted of one hundred sail, 
forty of which they parted with in the violent 
gale of the 29th. After overhauling our papers 
he returned on board the ship and most gra- 
ciously permitted us to proceed. From the time 
we were boarded from the Musquito until our 
arrival at Liverpool we were surrounded by 
this fleet. The pilot whom we took on board 
[ 8 1 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

informed us of Bonaparte's return to Paris, but 
this we considered so improbable an event as 
to pay no serious attention to it, but thought 
it a hoax which he was playing off on us Yan- 
kees. 

On our arrival in the harbour we were 
boarded by an officer of a 74-gun ship lying at 
anchor there, who requested Captain Nickels 
to furnish him with a list of his crew, that in 
the event of any of them being impressed they 
might be known and liberated. These orders 
were from the government, and certainly they 
indicated a disposition to make the peace of 
lasting duration as far as regarded this cause 
of complaint. 

At our landing on the wharf at Liverpool 
we were surrounded by a tribe of girls of the 
town who welcomed us most cheerfully. 

These and innumerable others whom we met 
in going to our lodgings, together with the 
sombre appearance of the buildings, first by 
lamplight made visible, gave me no favorable 
opinion of the place. After a long walk which 
(owing to inactivity on board ship) fatigued 
me exceedingly I arrived at the Liverpool Arms 
[ 9 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

(the Inn where Silliman 1 lodged and whose 
waiter Louis he had most unjustly accused of 
practising by his politeness upon the purses of 
the customers). The appearance of the attend- 
ants at an inn with hair bepowdered and 
dressed in an appropriate style was to me so 
new that it was some time before I could make 
up resolution to call in a consequential tone to 
the waiter to bring me anything wanted. The 
next day we were much pestered by Jews who 
Wished to purchase our gold which at this time 
was at a great advance above paper money. It 
was extremely amusing to hear these fellows 
talk of their American connections. They all 
positively declared that they did all the trade 
that was done in their line with America. They 
also asked very many curious questions — 
" Were Charlestown, S. C, Baltimore and Nor- 
folk near Boston ! " &c. &c. 

Liverpool possesses an Athenaeum which con- 
tains a very large collection of books in every 
department of literature. There was one book 

1 Benjamin Silliman, noted American scientist, 1779- 
1864 ; wrote a journal of travels in England, 1810 ; first lec- 
turer at the Lowell Institute, 1838. 

[ io ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

I saw which I thought a great curiosity. It 
was for teaching the blind, the letters being 
raised so as to be felt by them. I could not dis- 
tinguish them by feeling, but suppose a blind 
person could, as the sense of feeling is with 
them more acute. I was extremely fortunate 
in my visit to the blind asylum as I found the 
objects of its charity were engaged in singing. 
It was extremely solemn. I had never witnessed 
a scene more so. Twenty five blind men, women, 
girls and boys composed the choir. They were 
singing anthems. The female voices were un- 
commonly fine-toned. There were many specta- 
tors present among whom I observed a man 
with a small blind lad (I presumed his son) 
whom he had brought for the purpose of being 
admitted. During the singing the father ap- 
peared to be very much affected and " the big 
tears chased each other down his cheeks." In 
the hall are tablets whereon are inscribed the 
names of the donors to this establishment and 
in every room is a money box with " pray re- 
member the poor blind" written upon it. I was 
witness to one blind person's walking alone 
across the yard, going up stairs, and seating 
[ 11 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

himself to work at a loom. This he did as 
readily as if he were blessed with sight. One 
of the rooms is appropriated as a sales-room 
where baskets, rugs, &c. are shewn. This ad- 
mirable institution is certainly an honor to 
humanity ! 

The Exchange and the Town Hall are 
superb buildings. In the former are contained 
a reading room and an insurance office similiar 
to Lloyd's at London : in the area is an 
elegant monument to the memory of Lord 
Nelson. The expense of erecting it was defrayed 
by voluntary subscription, and the cost 45000 
dollars. 

I took my passage on Saturday in the coach 
for Warrington eighteen miles distant from 
Liverpool. The gardens and fields looked de- 
lightful being in quite as forward a state of 
vegetation as ours in June. I was much amused 
at the activity of the tumbling boys who 
turned head over heels at the side of the coach 
and with such swiftness as to even keep up 
with it for some time, which is done in expec- 
tation that the passengers will throw them a 
penny, their parents being so miserably poor 
C 12 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

that this is resorted to as a means of subsist- 
ence. There were six passengers inside and 
twelve outside the coach besides the coachman 
and an abundance of luggage. This added to 
the weight of the vehicle (which generally is two 
tons or more), makes it almost incredible that 
they should be able to go at the rate of seven 
and eight miles per hour. There is not the 
least derogation from respectability in riding 
upon the outside. I should certainly myself 
give it the preference in fine weather as you 
are enabled to have a much better view of the 
country through which you pass than when in- 
side the coach. The danger is however greater 
in the event of an accident happening to the 
coach, but as they are made so very strong they 
are in a degree guarded. We passed the seat 
of the Earl of Derby. 1 The park is very large. 
Earl Derby married the celebrated actress Miss 
Farren. He is much addicted to horse racing 
and gambling. 

Warrington is a manufacturing town. The 
manufactures consist of glass-houses, iron found- 

1 This was Edward Stanley, twelfth Earl, and founder, in 
1780, of the Derby, the most popular of English horse-races. 

[ 13 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

ries, cotton works, breweries, &c. It has a 
gloomy dirty appearance in consequence of these 
works and the quantity of coal used in them. 
A large part of its inhabitants subsist by their 
daily labor in these manufactories. It was late 
in the evening when I arrived. Opposite the inn 
were assembled a vast crowd of these work- 
men having (as it was Saturday night) received 
their weekly wages. This they were spending 
in ale which soon intoxicated a greater part 
and such a scene of riot ensued as I shall not 
attempt to describe. These men are generally 
intemperate: were it not for this habit they 
might live quite comfortably on their wages. 
As it is, their families are starving for food 
while they are spending all they can in drink. 
Saturday night does not satisfy them. Sunday 
and Monday which is called " blue " or " St. 
Monday" is kept the same, nor can any emer- 
gency of business whatever call them to resume 
their work if their last week's wages are not all 
spent. The old women seen in the streets are 
the most shocking looking creatures I ever be- 
held. I have seen them clothed in a man's hat 
and a short jacket over their gowns driving a 
C 14 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

little jackass through the town shewing such a 
countenance as to bring immediately to one's 
mind Shakespeare's scene of the witches in 
Macbeth. There is also an incredible number 
of children from two to four years of age 
swarming the street in such a state of nudity 
and uncleanliness as is quite disgusting. These 
wretched little beings are at quite an early age 
buried in the manufactories. I saw some in one 
who were not seven years of age. They had 
scarcely a rag to cover them. These poor little 
wretches earn sixty-seven cents a week ! Could 
but the advocates of the manufactures of our 
country but witness the misery attached to those 
in Warrington, Sheffield, & Leeds, I am sure 
they would not so strenuously argue that it is 
for our national welfare that they should be 
established in America. I went through an ex- 
tensive glass work, the proprietors of which pay 
£600 per week duty to government and XI 50 
wages to the Workmen. They were making a 
service of glass for the Prince Regent of Por- 
tugal, avery superb thing; tumblers were $15.00 
each, wine-glasses $5.00. The whole would cost 
$15,000. It will take one year to finish it. I 
[ 15 ] 



I 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

was here introduced to a Swiss gentleman, whom 
I found an intelligent perspn. Being a fine day 
we rambled into the country. The fields bore 
a charming appearance, surrounded by hedges 
cut in a most regular manner and blown out in 
flowers resembling the barberry when in blos- 
som. We stopped at the country house of Mr. 
A. (with whom we went) and partook of a 
luncheon of bread, cheese, and ale, and returned 
to W. to dine. There is but a slight difference 
between their etiquette at this meal and ours, 
consequently I have nothing to remark about 
it except the introduction of apples from France, 
at the dessert. A conversation took place after 
dinner respecting the English Clergy, when 
many sad instances of their misbehaviour were 
mentioned. This, it was observed, would oft 
be the case as long as they were independent 
of their hearers. The Earl of Derby has a liv- 
ing in his gift the income of which is £10,000 
a year. 1 This is now in the possession of his 
lordship's nephew, until his son becomes of age 

1 This living was probably at Winwick, and was beld by 
Rev. John James Hornby, the nephew of this Earl. The 
living is still one of the richest in England, — £2400 per 
annum. 

[ 16 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

to take it. The occupant of course is making 
the most of it and the poor tenants are ground 
to the dust with his exactions. The dissenting 
clergy, being chosen by their congregations, are 
an exception to this and are an honor to their 
profession. 

During a walk after dinner we came to a 
monument erected in commemoration of the 
defeat of the Scottish rebels in 1775. 1 It is over 
the spot where the person who erected it con- 
cealed his money and plate. These rebels were 
stopped at Warrington and prevented from 
crossing the river by the destruction of the 
bridge. At the glass works I witnessed a most 
singular operation in the removal of a broken 
pot from a furnace " seven times heated," and 
a perfect pot taken from another furnace equally 
heated and put in the place of the injured one. 
These large vessels weighed six to seven Cwt. 
and were so hot that I was obliged to stand at 
several yards distance from them. A large iron 
bar was inserted in the mouth of the pot, while 
another crossed it. The men, clothed in wet 

1 This date should he either 1715 or 1745, on hoth of which 
dates the Scottish rehels were in the vicinity of Warrington. 
[ 17 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

sacks, bore it along until it was fixed in its 
proper situation. A few years ago a workman 
slipped and fell into the furnace but was not 
injured, the sack preventing his being burned. 

At Warrington I became acquainted with 
Mrs. I. and daughter, with whom I was much 
pleased. When I entered the house I found 
Miss I. occupied in the old-fashioned Yankee 
employment of darning stockings. I was de- 
lighted with the ease with which I was received. 
The young lady continued her work until I in- 
quired for a direction to a place, when she of- 
fered to accompany me as a guide. So away we 
trudged, arm in arm, like old acquaintances. 
We had a deal of chat and I found her a very 
pleasant companion. 

I took leave of my Warrington friends after 
many kind invitations to return and pass a few 
days with them, then went to the Inn and after 
paying my bill, " boots," waiter and chamber- 
maid, departed in the coach for Manchester. In 
passing some farmhouses I observed a way they 
have of fastening fruit trees in the manner of 
a vine to the side of the house, which answers 
both for ornament and use, as the reflection of 
[ 18 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

the sun ripens the fruit, while the vine hides 
the dismal looks of the wall, which is solid in 
consequence of the window tax. 

Manchester at its entrance has an agreeable 
appearance, as there are many fine houses in the 
suburbs, which serves only to render the dis- 
appointment more extreme when you enter the 
town. It is a very irregularly built place ; a 
stranger may think himself fortunate if he does 
not lose himself twenty times a day. The ware- 
houses are in courts, the entrances to which are 
obscure and difficult. The rooms in which they 
show the goods are so darkened by the window 
squares being painted that a person must be a 
perfect judge of the effect of light and shade or 
he may be greatly deceived with regard to their 
fineness. 

There is an athenaeum and a reading-room 
here, supported by subscription. I was highly 
gratified in viewing the old church, an ancient 
Gothic building, the tower of which is of a 
great height : in the interior is some curious 
carved work, and over the altar a large tapestry 
picture, the subject of which I could not make 
out, as it was so defaced by the hand of time. 
[ 19 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Over it was a painted window, the colors in the 
highest perfection, although ages have elapsed 
since the work was executed. The whole inte- 
rior has a cold, damp and gloomy aspect, as the 
whole floor is composed of gravestones, it being 
used as a cemetery. Some part of the outside 
was undergoing a repair. 

In the evening I attended the theatre. The 
performances were " The Battle of Hexham " 
and " The Miller and his men." The acting was 
tolerably good, but the scenery and decorations 
not so handsome as at Boston. There were 
many ladies in the pit, which is customary here. 
John Bull in the gallery was quite noisy. En- 
cores were persisted in until every song was 
repeated, and when a player who had danced a 
hornpipe did not make his reappearance John 
became extremely outrageous and kicked up a 
row which only subsided by the performer's 
coming forward, stating that he had lamed him- 
self and offering the customary apology begin- 
ning with Ladies and Gentlemen, etc. 

Manchester is quite a smoky place. Upon my 
walking a little way out of town I found it was 
quite fine weather, and what I supposed a foggy 
[ 20 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

day was only an accumulation of coal smoke 
from their manufactories. 

The next day I took the coach for Leeds and 
after passing rapidly through several small 
places came to one of the most barren, desolate 
spots of earth I ever beheld. It was very ex- 
tensive and covered with a brown heath. In 
other parts of England I have seen similar 
tracts of land, some of which was not so sterile, 
and considering the immense population I think 
might be made to produce something either for 
man or beast. At the top of a mountain we 
passed a reservoir of water for supplying a canal 
in a dry time, the whole a work of art, and from 
its size it must contain an amazing quantity of 
water. After passing the wastes mentioned I 
saw many farms, the land appearing to be in 
the highest state of cultivation. The farmers all 
over the county employ old women and children 
to pick up dung in the streets and roads, and 
they gain (I am informed) one shilling per day 
by this miserable employment. The passengers 
in the coach were a democratic Scotsman and a 
most loyal English colonel. The Scot was a 
warm friend to Bonaparte and asserted that the 
[ 21 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

ministers had broken every treaty they had 
made with him. This was sharply resented by 
the colonel, and there is no telling where the 
dispute might have ended had not the con- 
versation turned upon American affairs. The 
colonel complimented the American troops in 
a curious manner by observing that they were 
brave and it was not to be wondered at since 
they "were descendants of Englishmen." It 
required all my gravity to make an acknow- 
ledging bow for this compliment ! I frequently 
found that the bravery displayed by the Ameri- 
cans in the last war was accounted for from 
this source. 

Leeds is a town of considerable consequence. 
It is not as gloomy and dull in appearance as 
most of the manufacturing places. The bricks 
of which the houses are built are of a lighter 
color, and more resembling ours. There is a 
reading room here to which I was introduced 
by a friend. It was well supplied with news- 
papers, and served me to pass a leisure hour 
away. This place is famous for its woolen man- 
ufactures. On market days a vast quantity of 
woolens of every description is exposed for sale 
[ 22 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

in a large building called the cloth-hall. The 
dealers in the respective cloths here purchase 
them and have them dyed and finished to suit 
themselves. I took a short ride to a village in 
the vicinity of Leeds, called Heckmondwick. 
My friend and I dined at a small ale-house, just 
such a one as Fielding describes in his novel of 
Tom Jones, and Joseph Andrews. The descrip- 
tion was so forcibly brought to my mind by the 
place that I almost expected Jones or Parson 
Adams would make his appearance. There was 
a kind of bread made of oatmeal hanging in 
large sheets from the ceiling, and pork sus- 
pended from the wall, this being the way they 
cure it, as they seldom pickle it in the manner 
we do. On our way back to Leeds we met many 
little children driving jackasses with paniers of 
coals on their backs. They were carrying them 
into a neighboring village for sale. We passed 
near to a large coal pit. The entrance to it was 
so forbidding that I did not venture down. At 
Leeds there is a steam engine which draws 
twenty eight loaded wagons several miles. On 
Sunday I attended divine service in the morn- 
ing and in the afternoon took the coach for 
£ 23 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Sheffield. On the road there, passed some ruins, 

and a pyramid erected by Lord 1 at a vast 

expense as the boundary to a v : jbw from Went- 
worth Castle. 

At dusk arrived at Sheffield and sat myself 
down a solitary being in the travellers' room. 
I should have preferred the society of a favorite 
dog or cat to have passed away the " lagging 
moments " which were to me almost un support- 
able. The next day visited some manufactories 
of cutlery, &c. &c. The manufactories of steel 
are brought to wonderful perfection. I saw 
twenty pairs of scissors so small that they were 
kept in a quill of the common size. The town 
is surrounded by hills, and were it not for its 
almost infernal smoke and fire, it would be quite 
pleasant. The inhabitants of this place partake 
of the misery resulting from manufactures. The 
poorer classes are worse off for the articles 
which they immediately manufacture than the 
inhabitants of the American back settlements 
are. Many children not eight years of age are 
at work in these cursed holes, deprived of edu- 
cation ; they consequently grow up in ignorance, 

1 Probably the Marquis of Rockingham. 
[ 24 ] 



I 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

and all the comfort or pleasure they have is in 
drunkenness and sensuality. Many of these 
little wretches are sent from London work- 
houses to these manufacturing towns. Often 
has my heart bled to see a poor little sickly 
being hard at work, deprived of liberty and 
fresh air, when its situation demanded the in- 
dulgent care of a tender nurse. In the evening 
I met at the inn the printer of a newspaper, 
who remarked that Gales who edits the Intel- 
ligencer was obliged to fly the town for fear 
of justice, and that his sisters still carry on a 
book-shop formerly his. Montgomery 1 the poet 
is the printer of a newspaper here. He bears a 
most excellent character, and is much esteemed. 
Left Sheffield for London ; passed through 
many fine towns. The country was throughout 
the whole route highly cultivated. There were 
three buxon damsels in the coach. After having 
travelled through the night one of these pulled 
out a small bottle of rum from her " indispen- 
sable" and most kindly asked me to partake 
with her and her companions. At Woburn 

1 James Montgomery, 1776-1854. Best known as the 
author of many hymns. 

[ 25 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

passed the seat of the Duke of Bedford. The 
park wall continued about two miles along the 
road until it terminated by an elegant gateway, 
— the entrance to the Abbey (as the house is 
called). Near here the road was cut through a 
mountain of chalk. It lay in large heaps on 
each side. 

As we approached London the country be- 
came thicker settled and more highly cultivated. 
At St. Albans, twenty-one miles this side, saw 
the famous abbey which bears that name. The 
edifice is of stone and is very large. At Isling- 
ton the houses were pretty and neat, but when 
I entered the great city I was a little disap- 
pointed at the narrow streets and lanes, and its 
appearance generally, which struck me as being 
dirty and gloomy. I took lodgings at the New 
England Coffee House, the general resort of 
Yankees. After I had dined with the assistance 
of Mr. Porter found out Mr. Webster and with 
him, in the evening, attended Drury Lane 
Theatre. The building is a most noble structure 
and is furnished with elegant scenery and de- 
corations. The play was The Unknown Guest, 
the concluding scene of which was the storming 
[ 26 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

and blowing up a castle. It was admirably re- 
presented. There were soldiers drawing cannon, 
bomb shells flying and bursting upon the ram- 
parts, &c. &c, the whole forming I should 
suppose, a perfect resemblance of a battle. The 
after-piece was The Woodman's Hut ; one 
scene of which represents a cottage struck by 
lightning and consumed, another a wood which 
took fire and spread until it consumed a row of 
cottages. One of the actresses much resembles 
Mrs. Darley. Munden is much like Bernard. 

On visiting the Bank of England I was as- 
tonished at its magnitude and the number of 
clerks employed. Many of the rooms in this 
great paper-mill of England resembled an ex- 
tensive school, where the clerks like boys were 
each set down to his task. The entrances are 
guarded by the porters dressed in scarlet coats 
with badges on their arms denoting their em- 
ployment, and by Beadles with a curious uni- 
form and huge gold-laced hats. 

Guildhall is a very large building but, with 
the exception of a few monuments, is not hand- 
some. These monuments are quite elegant and 
are erected in memory of Chatham, Pitt, Nel- 
[ 27 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

son & Beckford, 1 the last representing Beck- 
ford in his Mayor's robes holding in his hand 
the famous speech which he made to the King 
in 1770. This was erected by the city as a tes- 
timony of their approbation of his sentiments. 
There are also two mighty images here painted 
as fine as puppets called Gog and Magog. The 
Royal Exchange is a capacious building, but 
has been robbed of a deal of its elegance by the 
hand of time. The statues in the niches are 
very much decayed, which altogether renders 
it less interesting as a fine building than I ex- 
pected. All the public buildings in the city are 
injured in their appearance by the smoke of 
coal (which is here burnt altogether for fuel) 
and which adheres to the stones. 

In the area of the Exchange, merchants from 
all parts of the earth meet to transact business. 
It is hung around with advertisements ; one I 
remarked as being very singular : — a dentist 
had formed his of the decayed teeth which he 
had extracted from the jaws of his patients. 

1 William Beckford, 1709-1770, Lord Mayor of London, 
1762 and 1769. Speech mentioned was made May 28, 1770, 
and he died June 21, 1770. 

[ 28 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

These were arranged in such a manner as to give 
a much prettier effect than one would suppose 
rotten bones were capable of doing. The Man- 
sion House, the residence of the Mayor of Lon- 
don, has a very heavy and gloomy appearance, 
more befitting a prison than for the purpose it 
is intended. 

20 th. This evening attended Covent Garden 
Theatre. The outside, as well as that of Drury 
Lane and the Opera, is guarded by soldiers to 
keep pi*oper order. The play was Shakespeare's 
Romeo & Juliet. Miss O'Neil 1 sustained the 
character of Juliet in a style which as far sur- 
passed our actresses as the celebrated Cooke 2 
did our actors. The funeral scene was extremely 
solemn ; the friars and attendants were over 
sixty persons who chanted the service in the 
manner of the Romish church. The music and 
singing was very fine. The after piece was 
Lembucca, a modern melodrama resembling 

1 Eliza O'Neil, afterwards Lady Becher, born in Ireland 
1791, died 1872. Made her debut as Juliet at Covent Garden 
Theatre in 1814. Was for five years until her marriage Eng- 
land's most popular actress. 

2 George Frederick Cooke died in New York in 1811, and 
was regarded by Edmund Kean as the greatest of actors. 

[ 29 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Tekeli. The scenery and dresses to this were 
very handsome. There were frequently one hun- 
dred performers on the stage at once. The de- 
corations of this house on the auditors' parts 
(in the auditorium) are not so elegant as those 
of Drury Lane, yet I think the scenery more 
elegant. There is always attending these theatres 
an immense number of women of the town. 
With the exception of the first boxes which are 
designated as dress boxes they go into all parts 
of the house and seat themselves where they 
please. I have often seen many of them in boxes 
with ladies and gentlemen apparently respect- 
able. The streets are also thronged with these 
miserable wretches who accost every person 
who passes along. Many of them have not where 
to lay their heads, and pass the night in the 
streets in any corner which will afford them a 
shelter. At Covent Garden Theatre, Liston, 
one of the performers, is endued with such com- 
ical powers of countenance that one must have 
a perfect command of the risible powers to pre- 
vent himself from laughing before he utters a 
word. There are also some fine dancers at this 
house, but these ladies are so thinly clad and 
[ 30 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

throw themselves into such indecent postures 
that I think a New England audience would 
not have tolerated them. At night a good many 
of the streets and stores are lighted up with 
gas. The brilliancy of light thrown out this 
way is astonishing ; compared with it the oil 
lamps look like a " dim candle at noon." It is 
prepared in some building erected for the pur- 
pose and conducted through the streets in pipes 
like an aqueduct, consequently all the proprie- 
tors have to do is to turn a cock and apply a 
candle and the house or street is lighted. 

Within these last few days there has been 
posted upon the walls and distributed about 
the city a handbill offering a reward of ,£1000 
to any person who will apprehend and bring 
to the old Bailey for trial, Seignor Napoleon 
Buonaparte, accused with the murder of Captain 
Wright " contrary to the statutes of Geo. &c. 
&c. in that case made and provided." One of 
the public papers remarks that Government 
should look to this handbill, but as it appears 
so much like catching the devil it is pretty 
well understood to be a hoax. 

The Tower of London is a large pile of 
[ 31 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

buildings surrounded by a deep moat. At my 
entering within the walls I was joined by one 
of the yeomen of the guards as a conductor. 
He was habited in the uniform worn by that 
corps ever since the reign of Henry the 7th, 
which is grotesque enough ! In the first place 
he conducted me to the Spanish armory where 
there is an immense collection of the arms 
used by the Spaniards in their attempts to in- 
vade England with the Armada. Queen Eliza- 
beth's effigy dressed in the identical clothes 
worn by her at that time is in this room, stand- 
ing by the side of her horse. The horse ar- 
moury, where are the seventeen kings from 
William to George the 2 nd on horseback, is 
next shown. This room also contains a great 
many suits of very ancient armor preserved in 
the highest perfection. The attendant gener- 
ally gabbles through the history of these curi- 
osities in a dull monotonous tone, and should 
you unfortunately ask him a question in the 
middle of his story, you must have the pa- 
tience to hear it all over again, as they never 
can tell where they stopped. One of the effi- 
gies of a king whose armor had been taken off 
[ 32 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

to be repaired had a dirty old bed blanket 
thrown over his head and shoulders. He of 
course made a most laughable appearance sit- 
ting on horseback among his brother kings in 
polished armor. My guide, not noticing the 
circumstance, when he came to him went on 
with countenance unmoved in his story — " this 
is King &c, with his polished armor of steel, 
&c &c." Upon my laughing out at his de- 
scription of the poor blanketed king, he looked 
up and exclaimed "Oh dear! I've forgotten; 
his armor 's gone to be mended ! " The Volun- 
teer Armoury is the most beautiful of the 
whole, containing more than thirty thousand 
stands of arms, most fancifully arranged into 
pillars and other devices. The next is the Sea 
Armoury, containing arms sufficient for 50,000 
sailors and marines. In the royal train of ar- 
tillery are many curious cannon and mortars, 
the trophies of victories. Last is shown the 
Jewel Office, where the Regalia are kept. This is 
shown through iron bars to prevent theft. A few 
weeks ago an insane woman made an attempt 
to snatch some of the jewels from the crown, 
but did not succeed in getting any of them, al- 
[ 33 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

though she considerably injured it. The value of 
these jewels and plate is two millions of pounds 
sterling. They are shown to you by a woman 
who repeats parrot-like her story. At coming 
out you write your name and place of residence 
in a book kept for the purpose. The yeoman 
points out the rooms occupied by Sir Francis 
Burdett * during his imprisonment here, also the 
room where the young princes were smothered 
by order of Richard the Third, and the stair- 
case under which they were buried. Tower 
Hill, so famed for the executions performed 
upon it, is near the Tower, and takes its name 
from that circumstance. 

In my visits to Mr. Webster I have had oc- 
casion to notice the celebrated Hospitals where 
so many of our physicians have received a part 
of their education. Guy's Hospital is a spa- 
cious building designed for the reception of pa- 
tients afflicted with any disease. In front is a 
large court-yard wherein stands the statue of 

1 Sir Francis Burdett, who published in Cobbetfs Register 
in 1810 a letter denying the right of the Commons to im- 
prison for libel. His arrest being ordered he created quite a 
sensation by barricading his house and resisting arrest for 
four days. 

r 34 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Sir Tho s Guy its founder. Opposite the build- 
ing is St. Thomas' Hospital, a similar institu- 
tion. In one of its courts is the statue of Edw d 
3^ and in another of Rob 1 Clayton, both its 
benefactors. There are also several other stat- 
ues in niches. The number of patients received 
yearly into these institutions is immense. 

They have a wonderful way in this great 
city of showing off to advantage everything 
they have to sell. One has at his windows 
roasting jacks, with shapes of birds, mutton, 
beef, &c. cut out of wood turning upon them ; 
another a patent hat which (to show that it is 
water proof) is floating in a vessel of water ; 
another water filtering through a stone ; an- 
other men's eyes, legs, arms, &c, to supply 
the loss of those members ; in short, there is 
such an endless variety of objects at the shop 
windows that it would take a volume to de- 
scribe them. The draper's and jeweller's shops 
are set out in such an enticing manner that 
it is absolutely dangerous to the purse of a 
stranger. A one-pound note goes here just 
about as far as two dollars. Many articles 
(not excluding those manufactured here) are 
[ 35 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

retailed at but a little lower price than in 
Boston. This is caused by the excessive taxes 
and the high price that all articles of living 
bear. Beef is one shilling ; veal 10 d ; butter 
2 3 4 d , and everything in proportion. 

22nd. This evening went to Astley's amphi- 
theatre near Westminster Bridge. The interior 
is very pretty, lighted by a splendid chandelier, 
which descends through the ceiling and when 
coming down makes a beautiful appearance. 
The performances were of the pantomime and 
equestrian kind, the subject being the Life and 
death of the high-mettled racer. During this 
piece there was a correct representation of a 
horse race. The pit was railed through the cen- 
tre, and the horses started from the back of the 
stage at a long distance from the audience, and 
passed through the pit. A fox chase was also 
admirably done, from the starting of the fox 
until his death, the dogs and horses in full 
speed after the little animal. This was so illu- 
sive that the audience heartily joined in the 
tally - ho of the huntsmen, etc. In the course 
of the harlequinade a curious transformation 
set the house in a roar. A barber was carrying 
[ 36 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

a wig box whereupon was written " Judge Wis- 
dom's wig." The clown desiring to see it, he set 
it down and opened it, when a large wig (such 
as the judges in this country wear upon the 
bench) appeared. Harlequin struck it with his 
sword and out marched a venerable owl who 
majestically stalked across the stage and made 
his exit. Such success had this piece met with 
that tonight was the one hundredth night of its 
representation. 

23 rd Being Sunday I attended divine ser- 
vice at Whitehall chapel. Before this place 
Charles the 1 st was beheaded. It was formerly 
designed as a banqueting house. The inside is 
handsome ; at one end is a splendid canopy, 
composed of crimson and gold, erected for the 
allied sovereigns when upon their visit to this 
country the last summer. Here are also sus- 
pended the banners captured from the enemies 
of England at different periods, among them 
some French eagles, and four or five American 
standards taken at Detroit and Queenstown. 
The galleries were filled with officers and sol- 
diers, being the church that the military attend. 
The preacher was a very good one ; the subject 
[ 37 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

of his discourse being the comfort derived from 
a religious life, particularly under the loss of 
friends. The music was admirably performed by 
the Duke of York's band. The introduction of 
the trumpet particularly gave it a grand and 
sublime effect. I was not a little distracted from 
my devotions in looking at the ceiling, which 
is finely painted ; the subject (being designed 
for the banqueting room) presented a curious 
contrast to the solemnity of the service. 

Very near this place are the King's mews, 
which I went through. There are some fine 
horses here, particularly six cream-colored ones, 
whose skins were so sleek that they resembled 
satin. They are scarcely ever used except when 
the Prince goes to Parliament. The expense of 
keeping these beasts amounts to more than 
President Madison's salary, yet they are quite 
useless a great part of the time. I asked my 
friend who accompanied me if he did not feel 
a pride in showing a plain republican all this 
grandeur (for the building was like a palace). 
He replied in the affirmative, but his self satis- 
faction was not a little dissipated on my re- 
minding him that he by taxes, &c. dearly had 
[ 38 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

to pay for it. Seeing all this unnecessary ex- 
pense to a country groaning beneath its weight 
of taxes, must make an American more dearly 
appreciate the simplicity of the establishment 
of his own government, which has excluded this 
useless waste of money. 

I took dinner at Kentish Town, a small vil- 
lage three miles from London. The hospitality 
with which I was treated was highly gratifying 
to me, a stranger. In the evening I attended 
divine service and was pleased with the church, 
a small neat building, the sides of which were 
full of monuments, many of them handsomely 
sculptured. The service was devoutly performed. 
There is something so inexpressibly solemn in 
beholding old and young, rich and poor, upon 
their knees supplicating the Supreme Being to 
hear their prayers, that I wish it were adopted 
into our form of worship. Gloria Patri sung by 
a choir of small children had a charming effect. 
The subject of the discourse was our duty to 
love God with all our might and strength. The 
preacher was a good one and seemed to feel 
impressed with the importance of his subject. 

On Monday morning I went to London and 
[ 39 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

at night attended Drury Lane to see Kean in 
Richard the Third. He is quite a favorite of 
the town. His conception of the character is 
just, and in many scenes falls not short of Cooke, 
but his voice is so bad that when he attempts 
to raise it above a certain pitch it destroys the 
effect of his acting. The after piece was a mod- 
ern production of the kind where sense is ban- 
ished to please the eye with fine scenery, &c. 

25 th This day went through St. Paul's 
cathedral. The particular description of this 
wonderful building is so well known to all that 
to attempt it would be unnecessary. It is a 
source of great regret that it is in so crowded 
a situation. There should be a large space un- 
encumbered with buildings, around it, to show 
it to advantage. In the court of the building 
are many fine marble monuments. These are 
daily augmenting, as it is appropriated for 
that purpose, in the manner of Westminster 
Abbey which is now quite full. From the gal- 
leries are suspended many tattered flags. Some 
of these were taken by the Duke of Marlborough 
at Blenheim. The model of St. Paul's in one 
of the towers is a great curiosity. It was made 
C 40 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

by Sir Christopher Wren, and it was intended 
to have this church built like it. The floor of 
the Library is also very curious, being com- 
posed of a vast number of pieces put together 
without nails. From the whispering gallery you 
can look down into the court or area below, and 
such is the amazing distance that a man walk- 
ing there looks no larger than a mite. Passing 
up the great number of stairs through one of 
the small towers is apt to bring to mind scenes 
described in romances. When I descended from 
the dome, I found that the service had just 
begun in the chapel. Curiosity led me in and 
I found eight or ten men and boys dressed in 
dirty surplices chanting prayers in such a lazy, 
ridiculous manner that had I not been dis- 
gusted with the impropriety of it I should 
have laughed outright. I thought that they 
had not only " erred and strayed " but sung 
like " lost sheep." It rather resembled the 
braying of an ass. If this is the way the Deity 
is to be petitioned, I should like to know what 
idea the chapter of St. Paul's has of Him. 
There were not more than twenty auditors 
present for such mockery was more calculated 
[ 41 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

to drive them hence than to invite more. In 
almost every room in the building is a person 
who demands two-pence for showing it. This is 
a great disgrace to a nation possessed of the 
taste to erect such a magnificent pile. It is the 
fashion, however, in this country to demand a 
fee for showing all curiosities, either public or 
private. 

In walking the streets in the city a person 
must always keep upon the right-hand side or 
he will receive many a knock. The carriages 
always drive the reverse. There is always an 
immense number in the street, extending as far 
as the eye can reach, one line coming and an- 
other going, the side paths so full at the same 
time of foot passengers, that if one makes a 
full stop he stops fifty behind. As I came from 
the church I met a funeral. It was preceded 
by two mutes, with black staffs and bands, 
then a man bearing a board full of black os- 
trich feathers upon his head; after this the 
plumed hearse " came nodding on " followed 
by mourning coaches and mutes in bands and 
cloaks. There is always enough to attract a 
stranger's attention in the streets of London ; 
[ 42 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

persons with large labels pasted upon boards 
to inform you where are the best eating houses, 
or who always sells the highest prize, or some 
wonderful medicine that cures every disease. 
These fellows thrust small papers into your 
hands as you pass by. Any tradesman who has 
served the royal family, even in the minutest 
articles, immediately becomes pastry-cook, &c. 
to his royal highness the prince regent, and by 
raising the royal arms elegantly carved and 
gilded over his door takes special care that 
none shall remain ignorant of his honor. I 
happened to meet in the street the Lord Mayor 
and sheriffs returning in state from Guildhall. 
The coach is carved and gilt all over. The 
picture of it is in almost every child's picture 
book. This, as well as the liveries of the ser- 
vants, is in the same style which has been in 
use for years. The whole equipage is most 
plentifully bedaubed with gold. The mace 
bearer was in the carriage* with the mayor, and 
the sheriffs in their carriages followed, — the 
whole escorted by a mob of boys huzzaing ! 

28th Today went to Greenwich. The road 
is over London Bridge. This bridge is esteemed 
[ 43 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

to be quite unsafe and is to be pulled down and 
another erected in its stead. Near the bridge 
the Monument k ' like a tall bully lifts its head 
and lies! " This is all accounted in a ruinous 
condition and is considerably out of the per- 
pendicular, so much so that the workmen ap- 
prehend considerable trouble whenever it is 
removed, as the upper stones act as a binder 
or balance and when taken off will cause the 
bottom part to fall. From London Bridge there 
is a fine view of the shipping and boats on the 
river. On the road I observed an inn-keeper's 
sign with this inscription : 

" Thomas Smith, formerly coachman to the 
honorable Alexander Hope " 

This man, it seems, is not ashamed to tell who 
he was ! 

I found Greenwich hospital to be indeed a 
" royal institution." Its appearance bespeaks 
more the magnificence of a palace than a re- 
ceptacle for the infirm and aged. I saw many 
old seamen reclining at their ease beneath the 
piazza. They were clothed in blue clothes and 
cocked hats. Many of these hardy veterans had 
[ 44 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

lost an arm or leg, and almost all were scarred. 
Each one has a little cabin fitted up like the 
stateroom of a ship. These are kept perfectly 
clean and neat, and many of them are orna- 
mented with little pictures, &c. according to 
the fancy of the occupant. One who had been 
in the Battle of the Nile had Nelson's portrait 
and a picture of the action to adorn his cabin. 
These little luxuries are at their private ex- 
pense, as they have a shilling a week tobacco 
money allowed them by the institution. This 
and similar establishments for the comfort of 
aged and infirm warriors have conduced in a 
great manner to make England " invincible in 
arms," as the sailor has the comfortable assur- 
ance that his country will not neglect him in 
his old age, who has devoted his younger days 
to its service. The hall of the hospital is a most 
beautiful place. The ceiling was painted by Sir 
James Thornhill. There are many ingenious 
deceptions in the painting of the sides also, such 
as pillars, doors, &c. A gentleman who was 
present with some ladies in company, had a key 
handed to him by the guide who told him to go 
through a door in the wall and show the ladies 
[ 45 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

the garden. He readily took the key but was 
not a little mortified at finding that what he 
and all the spectators present had taken for a 
door was only a deception of painting. In this 
hall is a superb car whereon Lord Nelson's re- 
mains were carried to St. Paul's for interment, 
also a splendid vase and furniture for the hall 
to the amount of <£10,000, presented by a widow 
lady. The chapel opposite is very elegant. The 
floor is of checquered marble. Over the altar 
is a picture of the shipwreck of St. Paul, by 
West. The observatory, (so celebrated) is situ- 
ated in a park of great extent, from which there 
is a noble view of London and the river Thames. 
A stranger finds no difficulty in getting a con- 
veyance at any hour in the day to any of the 
adjoining villages, as there are coaches which 
ply to and from the different places, the fares 
of which are quite moderate, being from Lon- 
don to Greenwich (six miles) one shilling. In 
every noted street in the city coaches stand at 
all hours of the day and night. They are not 
so elegant as ours, yet are decent. The drivers 
are kept in order by the severity of the laws. 
They are obliged to give you a ticket of their 
C 46 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

number if you demand it, which is evidence as 
to the carriage in case they take improper fees, 
or otherwise impose upon you. The magistrates 
always severely punish these fellows when found 
guilty. 

29th This evening went to Drury Lane and 
saw Kean perform Penruddock in " The Wheel 
of Fortune." I think I never saw finer acting. 
He particularly excels in characters where the 
voice is not to be raised very high. Mr. Bartley 
performed in the farce Sir David Dunder. This 
he did in his admirable style. He is famous in 
the character of Sir John Falstaff. 

30th This day walked out to Chelsea to view 
the hospital. It is a similar establishment to 
Greenwich, being for the comfort of decayed 
soldiers. The edifice is not so elegant as that 
of Greenwich, but the situation is airy and 
pleasant. I found the soldiers in the chapel, a 
plain room ornamented with a picture over the 
altar of the resurrection of Christ with the sol- 
diers around the tomb. The hardy looking vet- 
erans were all kneeling at their prayers. There 
were a great many strangers present. Passing 
from the chapel I entered the dining-hall and 
[ 47 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

found the dinner-table spread in a neat and 
clean manner. Each soldier is allowed for his 
Sunday dinner a pound of meat, a loaf of bread, 
a quarter of a pound of cheese and a quart of 
beer. At one end of this room is a fine picture 
representing Charles the Second trampling Re- 
bellion under foot. In the background is the 
hospital, to which he was a benefactor. View- 
ing the ease with which these old soldiers pass 
the remnant of their days makes me feel not a 
little ashamed of my native land, nor could I 
help contrasting the comfort of their lives with 
many of our old Revolutionary patriots, who 
bled for the independence of that country which 
leaves them in old age to indigence and want. 
Returning I passed through St. James and 
Hyde Parks. These are delightful promenades. 
Over the canal is a gingerbread looking bridge 
of the Chinese fashion, which was erected when 
the grand jubilee took place. St. James' and 
Queen's palaces are quite inferior looking build- 
ings. There are many handsome squares and 
streets in the west part of the town, which is 
the residence of the nobility and gentry. In the 
evening attended divine service at the Magdalen 
[ 48 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

hospital, a receptacle for penitent prostitutes. 
The Duke of Gloucester and the Princess Sophia 
were present. They are children of the king's 
brother. They came in the carriage with serv- 
ants and attendants in abundance. The church 
was very much crowded. The " magdalens " 
were in a gallery, screened from the view of 
the audience. The subject of the sermon was 
the resurrection of our Saviour, at the close of 
which an affecting appeal was made to the pen- 
itents. The music was very fine. The choir was 
composed of the unfortunate girls, whose leader 
was a woman who formerly received the benefit 
of this institution, is now reputably married, 
and is hired for that purpose. When I reflected 
how many females were rescued from perdition 
by this admirable institution I could not with- 
hold my prayers in the words of the anthem 
" that these walls might be with gladness 
crowned," nor could I help regretting how few 

of our sex there are 

" who scorn 
To plant within the female breast a lasting thorn." 

When I arrived at my friend's door, a gentle- 
man who was in company took his handkerchief 
[ 49 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

out to wipe his face, and in returning it to his 
pocket a person behind received it into his hand 
and made off. This afforded us much mirth, as 
a person here never gets his pocket picked but 
he is laughed at for complaining about it. 

1st May. This day the chimney sweeps have 
a grand jubilee. These sons of soot parade the 
streets fantastically dressed out in gilt paper 
jackets with gaudy wreaths around their heads, 
their faces besmeared with soot, and their hair 
powdered. They go from house to house begging 
money. Lady Montague, who had lost her son, 
and after a very long search found him appren- 
ticed to a sweep, left by will a sum of money 
to purchase annually a dinner at Paddington 
for as many of these sable sons as choose to 
attend. The hackney coachmen also have abund- 
ance of ribbons on their hats in honor of the 
season. 

It being a charming morning I went to 
Westminster Abbey. My way was over West- 
minster Bridge which is much the handsomest 
structure of the kind which is finished. Being 
rather heated with walking I took a turn into 
[ 50 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Westminster Hall to cool myself, as the damp- 
ness of the Abbey renders it dangerous to go 
into in that state. The Hall is quite large. 
There were many lawyers, dressed in their gowns 
and wigs, promenading it. At one end is the 
Court of Chancery, a small, dirty, dark room, 
30 feet square. The judge, Sir Thomas Plomer, 
sat upon a bench at one end, and the lawyers 
in a pit in the middle of the room. As the 
pleadings were quite uninteresting to me I soon 
left the place. The Abbey is an ancient and 
noble building. I entered at the Poets' Corner ; 
found divine service performing. The effect of 
the organ through the long arched aisles was 
inexpressibly sublime and grand, and the ap- 
pearance of the painted windows through the 
same truly beautiful. Time has crumbled to 
dust many of the ancient monuments, but the 
great beauty of some of the modern ones de- 
serves notice, particularly one to the memory 
of Lady Nightingale. It represents Death burst- 
ing from the tomb and aiming his dart at the 
bosom of the wife, who is looking up with con- 
fidence expressed in her countenance for protec- 
tion from her husband, whose agony is extreme 
[ 61 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

at beholding her implore that assistance which 
is unavailing. The work is so well done as to 
raise doubts at first of its being marble. The 
monuments of Wolfe, Chatham, Pitt and Andre 
are fine pieces of sculpture. You are also 
shown, to the disgrace of the nation, some wax 
figures in cases. I hardly need observe that 
after viewing these fine pieces of workmanship, 
such baby-works are peculiarly disgusting and 
insipid. The Coronation chairs are here. In 
the seat of one of them is the stone brought 
from Scone in Scotland and on which the Scot- 
tish kings were crowned. I could not resist 
among the rest of the visitors the desire to sit 
in the chairs which have been successively oc- 
cupied by a "line of kings." In one of the 
chapels are hung the banners of the Knights 
of the Garter, with the crests and armorial 
bearings, beneath which are seats for their use 
on state occasions. The workmen were repair- 
ing one end of the Abbey which was damaged 
some years ago by fire. 

In the afternoon went to the House of Com- 
mons. The room in which the members sit is 
40 feet by 80 feet, and not much more elegant 
[ 52 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

than our old court-house at Boston. Over the 
Speaker's chair are the royal arms, carved and 
gilded. The Speaker (Mr. Abbott) seemed to 
be quite an active man. His head was covered 
with a large wig similar to those the judges 
wear. The Commons were debating upon the 
propriety of accepting a most impudent petition 
from the city against going to war with Bona- 
parte. In this petition they called the Parlia- 
ment a corrupt one, and the ministry wicked, 
weak and dangerous men. Lord Castlereagh 
made no reply. The speakers were Whitbread, 
Best, Ponsonby, Vansittart, Sumner, Curtis, 
Burdett, Baring, Tierney and Peele. Whit- 
bread resembles Otis in fluency and Ponsonby 
Dexter in solidity of arguing. The rest were 
not above mediocrity. Sir Francis Burdett was 
a miserably bad orator, I think, but it is hazard- 
ing perhaps a hasty opinion that the talents of 
our State Legislature would not lose much by 
a comparison with that of the House of Com- 
mons. 

May 4th. This day it is the custom for the 
priests and parish officers to take a number of 
boys of the parish to the boundaries of it for 
[ 53 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

the purpose of perpetuating in their memories 
the recollection of it. I chanced to be in a 
warehouse which stood in two parishes, and 
was a witness to the novelty. The boys, headed 
by the officers, entered without ceremony into 
the place, and with wands which they had, 
struck a plate of brass affixed to the wall. 
Sometimes they meet with the boys of another 
parish, and not infrequently does a combat 
ensue. 

The Queen 1 held a levee this morning. The 
park was crowded with spectators to see the 
company go into the palace. The equipages were 
extremely brilliant. Many of the carriages had 
behind three great fellows with splendid liveries 
and gold-headed canes in their hands. The gen- 
tlemen wore powdered hair and bags ; the ladies 
were elegantly dressed with three ostrich plumes 
on their heads, in the manner of the Prince 
Regent's plume. Many of these fair dames had 
them of such immoderate length that they were 
obliged to sit stooping for fear the top of the 
carriage would discompose their head-dress. 
The most singular spectacle was some ladies in 

1 Queen Charlotte Sophia, -wife of George III. 
[ 54 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

sedan-chairs, dressed with hoop petticoats, pre- 
ceded by two and three footmen. The Prince 
Regent 1 and Duke of Kent surrounded with a 
body of fine horse-guards passed along in their 
carriages with great rapidity. Guards were also 
stationed along the park where they drove. 
The Prince Regent is not very fond of showing 
himself to the people, as they take a disagree- 
able liberty of speaking very frankly to him. He 
endured much mortification when the Emperor 
of Russia was here last year, for when he made 
his appearance with him, the mob would cry 

out aloud, " You d d rascal, where 's your 

wife ? " 

At night attended Covent Garden Theatre 
to see Mr. Kemble and Miss O'Neil in the play 
of The Stranger. The performances this even- 
ing were never, in my opinion, surpassed for 
excellence. Kemble has a very singular voice, 
and I think is a little too formal and precise, 
yet his acting is elegant. When I speak of 
Miss O'Neil I cannot find words to express 

1 The Prince Regent, later George IV, married Caroline 
Amelia Elizabeth of Brunswick in 1795, whom he neglected 
and later tried to divorce. 

[ 65 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

sufficiently my admiration of her acting. It is 
said she excels Mrs. Siddons when she first ap- 
peared upon the London boards. Her person 
is most beautiful. She possesses a fine tonic 
voice and a very expressive countenance. 

I observed at a print shop a paper headed 
" British Valor." It was a proposal to publish 
two prints representing the victory of his 
Majesty's ship " Endymion " over the Amer- 
ican frigate "President," with a compari- 
son of the respective weights of metal and 
number of men, whereby is shown the vast 
superiority of the latter over the former — 
' the whole designed by a relative of Captain 
Hope of the " Endymion." ' John Bull swal- 
lows all this nor would disbelieve it if Admiral 
Hotham's letter was in the next window, for 
he has always been taught that " Britannia 
rules the waves." 

7th. Attended divine service at St. Andrew's 
church. The subject of the discourse was the 
ascension of Jesus Christ. I was not much 
pleased with the preacher. He seemed to be 
quite insensible to the importance of his sub- 
ject. The church is adorned with a painted 
[ 56 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

window representing in one compartment 
Christ's Last Supper, and in another the As- 
cension. These paintings are more than two 
hundred years of age, yet the colors remain 
perfect and brilliant. At each side of the organ 
are paintings ; one representing our Saviour heal- 
ing the blind (" and after that He put His hands 
again upon his eyes and made him look up and 
he was restored and saw every man clearly." 
Matt. 8;25) ; the other His delivering His Ser- 
mon on the Mount. " He went up into a moun- 
tain and when He was set His disciples came 
unto him." I think the fine paintings illus- 
trating the events of our Saviour's life with 
which the English churches abound are calcu- 
lated — 

" To raise at once our reverence and delight, 
To elevate the mind, and charm the sight, 
To pour religion through th' attentive eye, 
And waft the soul on wings of ecstasy. 
For this the mimic Art with Nature vies, 
And bids the visionary form arise. 
Who views with sober awe, in thought aspires, 
Catches pure zeal, and as he gazes fires, 
Feels a new ardor to his soul convey'd, 
Submissive bows, and venerates the shade." 

(Louth) 

[ 57 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

There were present about two hundred charity 
children who are supported and educated by the 
parish. They were dressed in a neat blue uni- 
form appropriate to their condition. In the 
evening went to the Foundling Hospital, an in- 
stitution for the reception of deserted infants. 
Here they are maintained and educated until 
of proper age to be apprenticed out. I was 
fortunate enough to arrive at an interesting 
period. Sixteen young men and women who 
had been apprenticed out this evening returned 
thanks to Almighty God for bringing them to 
this charity when they were deserted by their 
natural parents. The text of the discourse was 
" Jesus wept." It was a very finished composi- 
tion and particularly adapted to the occasion. 
The preacher in an elegant and argumentative 
manner pointed out the advantages of Christian 
sensibility and inferred that from that source 
the support of this institution flowed. The sing- 
ing was very beautiful. Several eminent musical 
performers assisted the choir. There were up- 
wards of five hundred of the children present, 
their ages from three to eleven years. At the 
end of the chapel is a picture by West of Christ 
[ 58 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

receiving little children. "Suffer little children 
to come unto Me and forbid them not, for of such 
is the kingdom of heaven." It is impossible to 
see the countenance of our Saviour as expressed 
by the pencil of West without the heart ac- 
knowledging that this was " the Man of Sor- 
rows and acquainted with grief." At the door 
a person stands to receive the charity of the 
visitors, which (as it is always crowded) amounts 
to a very considerable sum, and as it is under- 
stood that it is strictly applied to the purpose of 
the establishment, the liberality of the donors 
is conspicuous. 

8th. This morning I spent four hours in the 
British Museum. The building is capacious 
and contains curiosities to a vast amount, be- 
ing the collection of years. Here is a grand 
collection of Roman and Grecian household 
utensils, coins, statues, &c. &c. ; with this de- 
partment I was particularly pleased, as it was 
very interesting to behold relics which brought 
us home, as it were, to their very households. 
Several students were busied in drawing from 
the statutes. The other part of the building 
contains a large library, manuscripts, minerals, 
[ 59 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

and other curios, a particular account of which 
is given in the catalogue. This institution is 
shown with some regard to national honor, as 
no money is allowed to be given to the attend- 
ants, who are quite as civil as those paupers 
who show other places. Every visitor is 
obliged to write his name and place of residence 
in a book, upon entrance. 

Miss Lin wood's gallery of needlework is per- 
haps the most extraordinary exhibition in the 
world ; there are fifty-three large pictures done 
by her own hands with the needle, in worsted. 
The execution of them is so admirable that it 
requires a nice eye to discriminate between them 
and paintings. Jeptha sacrificing his daughter 
and a head of our Saviour are particularly fine. 
In one room fitted up to resemble a Gothic 
abbey are apartments wherein are many inter- 
esting pieces executed in the most natural 
manner. 

At night went to Sadler's Wells, a little 
theatre at Islington. The house was crowded 
with spectators ; the performances were of the 
lowest kind of buffoonery and harlequinade. 
Grimaldi the celebrated clown performed. His 
[ 60 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

fame has certainly not been over-rated, as he is 
one of the drollest dogs I ever beheld. The 
amusement of the evening concluded with a 
representation of the Battle of the Nile, on real 
water. The battle ships manoeuvered about in 
a dashing style. The whole concluded with 
blowing up of the French ship L'Orient. 

This month the exhibition of paintings at 
Somerset House is open for the reception of 
visitors. The building is magnificent and has 
beside the apartment for the exhibition many 
rooms for public offices. The pictures exhibited 
were above one thousand, and consisted of the 
choicest works of the artists. With pleasure I 
observed two pieces done by Americans, one by 
Allston representing the Lady Mencia in Gil 
Bias recovering from a swoon in the cave of the 
robbers. It was finely executed but it appeared 
to great disadvantage, being placed in a bad 
light. Morse's 1 picture did not so warmly meet 
my approbation, as his subject, young Payne 
in the character of Zaphna, was not calculated 
to display much taste. The pictures which most 
pleased me were the " Distraining for Rent " 

1 S. F. B. Morse, the inveiitor of the telegraph. 
[ 61 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

and the " Departure for London." In the first 
the terror and grief which the poor cottagers 
are thrown into by the sheriff's officer and 
their nonchalance in the midst of it, with all 
the minutiae of the furniture of an humble cot 
are so well delineated that the illusion is com- 
plete, and you are placed in the midst of the 
scene. In the " Departure for London " an old 
man has a young one by the hand while the rest 
of the family are busied in packing his trunk 
for the journey. In the background a domestic 
is tying his dog to prevent his following him. 
The anxiety of the old man's countenance was 
forcibly expressed. He seems to be saying "Take 
care that the temptations of the great city do 
not undermine those good principles which it 
has been my greatest pleasure to inculcate." 
There were many fine specimens of sculpture 
[in Somerset House] ; in particular one designed 
as a monument to General Brock who was killed 
in Upper Canada. 

In the afternoon curiosity led me and two 

friends to the far-famed King's Bench Prison. 

It is in the Burrough over London Bridge. The 

walls around it are very high and capacious. 

[ 62 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Within, it resembles a small town. There is a 
market, coffee-house, post-office, bake-house, 
shops, etc. etc. There were confined here 500 
prisoners, a great many of whom were enjoying 
a game of racket. Some were smoking and drink- 
ing and others were promenading the yard. 
The guide pointed out to us de Berenger 1 the 
person who personated the Frenchman in Lord 
Cochrane's hoax. Lord Cochrane 2 is closely con- 
fined in a room for making his escape from his 
imprisonment here. After he had done so he took 
his seat in the House of Commons, where he was 
arrested. We were shown the room where 

1 Charles R. de Beranger, an officer in the English army. 

2 Thomas Cochrane, later tenth Earl of Dundonald ; born 
1775 ; died 1860. He was accused in 1814 of complicity in 
originating a fraudulent report of the entrance of the Allies 
into Paris and the death of Napoleon. This deception was for 
the purpose of influencing the stock market, and although 
Lord Cochrane claimed to be entirely innocent, he was im- 
prisoned for a year, fined, and expelled from the House of 
Commons. His later career was very interesting, for he was 
enrolled successively in the Chilean, the Brazilian, and the 
Greek navies, finally coming back to the British navy, of 
■which he was Admiral, 1848-1854. He was exonerated in 
1831 by William IV from all complicity in the so-called 
" Hoax " mentioned above, was restored to his rank and 
honors in 1847 by Queen Victoria, and in 1877 his heirs re- 
covered a considerable sum as damages for his imprison- 
ment and loss of pay. 

[ 63 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

the celebrated Mrs. Clark x was confined. It 
was a small place and formed I should presume 
quite a contrast to the apartments of the royal 
Duke. There were many genteel looking per- 
sons in confinement. The keeper observed that 
some lived at the rate of ten or twelve pounds 
a week expense ($50.) and that very few who 
came with money ever departed with any, and 
that this was not caused by the high prices of 
articles, (for they are at liberty to send without 
the walls for them) but to an extravagance which 
all become habituated to. 

On our walk home we passed by a building 
newly erected for the purposes of a Bedlam. 
Its exterior is perfectly elegant, more resem- 
bling a palace than a madhouse. We were not 
permitted to view the interior of the building. 

In the evening went to the Surrey Theatre, 
a small house devoted to dramatic and eques- 
trian performances. I was not pleased with the 
acting, but the scenery was quite as elegant as 

1 Mary Anne Clarke, born, London, 1776 ; died, Boulogne, 
1852. An English woman of obscure origin, mistress of the 
Duke of York and notorious from public scandals arising 
from this connection. She was imprisoned in 1813 for a libel- 
lous publication, and after 1815 lived in Paris. 
[ 64 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

at the larger houses. The audience was of the 
citizen order, the nobility never making their 
appearance at such common places ! 

Sunday, 14th. Attended St. Catherine's 
church this morning. Like most churches in 
which I have been, it has marble monuments 
in memory of the dead. One of them is a re- 
cumbent figure ; I thought it handsome. The 
prayers were read remarkably well, and the 
music consisting of a choir of charity boys and 
girls was good. The sermon was designed as 
preparatory to a collection, to be taken on the 
ensuing Sabbath, for the purpose of aiding 
missions and Bible societies ; the text was Acts 
10 th , 34 th verse. The preacher observed in the 
course of it that the ancestors of those present 
once sacrificed to idols, and were it not for the 
exertions of missionaries sent to them by the 
pious christians in the earlier ages they might 
now be groping in " heathen darkness " and 
that those places where now stands the altar of 
Christ but for this might now be the places 
of sacrifice to idols. He aroused the feelings of 
many a pious mother by recounting the number 
of infants sacrificed in India and the manner 
[ 65 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

in which it was done ; and he finally concluded 
with the observation " that if religion did not 
command their aid, the common principles of 
humanity required it." At night I went to the 
Foundling Hospital but was not so much grati- 
fied with the preacher as on the last Sabbath. 
The subject was the example of the apostles ; 
he said that their perseverance in establishing 
the gospel should be a guide to us in the prac- 
tice of its precepts. The music was fine, being 
anthems and hymns set to music by the first 
masters. 

16 th. I left London for the country. There 
were three passengers in the coach, a gentle- 
man and his lady and a young lady, all of 
whom I found quite agreeable persons. The 
country was beautiful, as the trees were in 
bloom, and the pure air was grateful to me 
who had breathed nothing but coal smoke for 
so long a time. We passed many residences of 
the nobility. Near Stamford is Burleigh House, 
the seat of the marquis of Exeter. At the 
entrance of the park is a most noble gateway 
in the Gothic order. At Stamford are many 
[ 66 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

churches, one of them apparently very antique. 
The steeple to it is of immense height. While 
we were here changing horses we were almost 
stunned with the music of a peal of bells which 
some amateur in that science was playing upon. 
At Newark we saw the ruins of the castle of 
that name, which was destroyed by Oliver 
Cromwell in the civil war. The battlements 
were many of them entire, and the moon shin- 
ing upon them added very much to their ro- 
mantic appearance. At Ferrybridge we crossed 
the river Aire over a remarkably handsome 
stone bridge. During the journey I was fre- 
quently regaled with refreshments which the 
gentleman had brought and which he was so 
polite as to offer me. We travelled all night. 
At dusk I was not a little surprised at behold- 
ing my fair fellow traveller, who was quite a 
pretty girl, take off her bonnet, tie on her 
night cap, and leisurely compose herself to 
sleep in one corner of the coach, where she 
made quite an interesting appearance. After 
going with almost incredible swiftness, we 
arrived at Leeds, at 6 o'clock in the morning, 
being at the rate of eight miles and one-third 
[ 67 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

each hour (including stoppages for refresh- 
ments, changing horses, etc.) — a velocity with 
which I desire never to travel again. 

At Leeds in the evening I saw the Indian 
Jugglers, three natives of India. Their perform- 
ances were wonderful. They were so out of 
the common sphere of exhibitions of this kind 
that I was perfectly astonished. The last feat 
was the swallowing of a sword, the blade of it 
twenty inches in length. This was not sleight- 
of-hand, but the practice of doing it from a 
child had rendered it familiar. The amazing 
power of mechanism compared to manual labor 
is demonstrated at Leeds in a variety of ways. 
At a warehouse I saw a packing press having 
thirty-two tons power, arising from the pres- 
sure of a pail of water pumped up to the ceil- 
ing through a small pipe, and which in return- 
ing forces the press down with this amazing 
weight. It is so easy in its operation that a 
lad of eight years has sufficient strength for 
the purpose. There are also in Leeds eighteen 
wagons for carrying coal, the weight of which 
when loaded cannot be estimated at less than 
one hundred tons. These are propelled alto- 
C 68 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

gether by steam. They run upon a perfect 
plane with irons which fit into grooves on the 
wheels. These wagons deliver an immense 
quantity of coal at Leeds. The price of them 
is about seven shillings a chaldron [32 bushel]. 
At a manufactory I saw the different operations 
from the beginning to the finishing of a piece 
of cloth. The whole machinery was put in 
force by a steam engine which cost the pro- 
prietor one thousand guineas. Here also were 
imprisoned about fifty wretched boys and girls, 
the eldest not over ten years of age. They were 
all besmeared with dirt and grease arising 
from the wool. The proprietor observed in reply 
to my asking him if they never went to play, 
that they were there at six in the morning and 
never left off work, except for dinner, until 
seven at night. Thus these poor little wretches 
are confined in these hells — for I cannot find 
a more appropriate name — deprived of edu- 
cation and buried in these dark, noisy and un- 
wholesome dens. They either pass a quick but 
miserable existence or furnish turbulent, ig- 
norant and vicious members of society. 

19th. I dined this day at the seat of a gen- 
[ 69 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

tleruan a few miles out of town. The situation, 
surrounded with pleasure grounds and gardens, 
was pleasant. Among the shrubs in the garden 
was a barberry bush, which is here esteemed 
as a great curiosity. At dinner there was a 
number of handsome and agreeable ladies pres- 
ent. This meal was served up in a most splen- 
did style. The excessive attention of the ser- 
vants was to me quite disagreeable. Lady F., 
one of those present, was very sociable and 
asked me many questions respecting America. 
Speaking of our navy she remarked that all 
our ships were manned by Englishmen, and 
proved the remark by saying " Otherwise, how 
could they fight so?" I was not astonished at 
the manner of her reasoning as I have often 
heard the same opinion expressed by many 
persons when speaking of our navy. After din- 
ner the whole party took a walk through many 
fine gardens and fields until we came to the 
brow of a hill when all at once a most beauti- 
ful landscape presented itself. At a short dis- 
tance was a wood near the banks of the river 
Aire, over which was thrown a pretty stone 
bridge. On the left were the ruins of Kirks- 
[ 70 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

hall Abbey, once a most magnificent building. 
The grandeur of the turret is still visible on a 
nearer approach. I was highly gratified. We 
entered the cemetery under the abbey. Here 
were several stone coffins which once contained 
the ashes of some nun or monk. The roof of 
the dining hall is quite entire, the gothic arches 
which support it being very beautiful. The 
southern window is very fine, and quite per- 
fect. 

Beyond the grand gateway is the hall or 
chapel. The galleries to it are supported by 
immense stone pillars, all in high perfection. 
Some of the towers are whole ; one of them had 
a circular flight of stone steps which led to the 
top. From vestiges of the walls around the 
ruins which still remain, it is presumed the 
lands belonging to this institution were of 
large extent. In one part of this land is a large 
cistern hewn out of solid stone. The venerable 
walls and towers overgrown with ivy and 
tinged with the last rays of the setting sun, 
together with the delightful landscape around, 
rendered the scene truly charming ; so much 
was I gratified that I determined to pay this 
[ 71 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

place another visit before my departure. Dur- 
ing conversation in the evening a lady observed, 
after one of the young ladies had been singing 
and playing, that it was quite shocking now to 
behold every vulgar, ill-born wretch attain an 
accomplished education, and that she under- 
stood that every tradesman's daughter was 
taught music, etc. Most unfortunately she di- 
rected her remarks to me, and by the manner 
in which they were delivered she seemed to re- 
quire my assent to her observations. This she 
did not have, and I, I suppose, for my repub- 
lican notions, forfeited the lady's good opinion 
of my politeness. 

20th. This being market day here, I went at 
nine o'clock into the Cloth Hall. This is quite 
large, being four halls of three hundred and 
fifty feet in length. Each person has an al- 
lotted space, marked with his name and town, 
whereon he exhibits his cloths for sale. At the 
ringing of a bell the sales begin and continue 
one hour. Except at that time no one is allowed 
to buy or sell in the building. There were on 
this day exposed for sale above one thousand 
pieces of cloth. The owners of them spoke such 
[ 72 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

a curious dialect that I could uot understand 
one word in ten they uttered. 

Part of the Prince Regent's own regiment is 
stationed at Leeds. They are the finest looking 
men I ever beheld. There are also other sol- 
diers here, whose recruiting parties parade the 
street, with a noble band of music. They have 
just passed, having two or three country lump- 
kins in company, to whom the soldiers have 
given their swords and exchanged their caps 
for their hats, with which the great boobies 
seemed as much pleased as a child with a 
rattle. 

Sunday, 21st. Attended divine service at the 
old church. This is a venerable building. It 
has a painted window ; over the altar is a fine 
picture of our Saviour taking the cup at the 
Last Supper. The ceiling is also painted but 
the dampness arising from the floor (which is 
used as a burial place and covered with stone) 
has considerably injured it. Here are also sev- 
eral handsome monuments ; one a beautiful 
piece of workmanship in marble representing 
an angelic figure weeping over the flag of Eng- 
land. This was erected to the memory of two 
[ 73 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

gallant officers, natives of Leeds, who fell at 
the battle of Talavera in Spain. In one part of 
the church are hung the banner and armorial 
bearings of several knights. The preacher was 
tolerable ; his subject was the piety of Cornelius 
the centurion. There were fifty one banns of 
marriage published this morning; in addition 
to this several couples were joined in the holy 
bonds of matrimony previous to the beginning 
of the church service. The organ of this church 
is justly celebrated as being one of the finest 
toned ones in England. I dined at Mr. O's in 
company with the Mess rs Hoffman of Baltimore. 
The dinner was quite in the family style. Mr. 
O. remarked that his aunt was married by the 
celebrated Sterne, J and that a few days ago 
he had in his possession a whip which formerly 
belonged to that eccentric character. After we 
had dined the company walked out of town 
upon a visit to Kirkstall Abbey. I was no less 
delighted now than on my former visit. There 
were a number of common people rambling 
through the ruins of whom I asked a variety of 
questions respecting the antiquity of the place, 

1 This probably was the Rev. Laurence Sterne. 
[ 74 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

and I received some very curious answers. We 
passed through the chapel at the end of which 
is a noble large window with some of its orna- 
ments still remaining. In a small recess the 
font for holy water is still perfect, and the 
same is seen in a number of private chapels 
adjoining the great one. Ascending a flight of 
stone steps we came into a gallery from whence 
a circular staircase leads into one of the towers, 
but owing to the ruinous state of the steps 
we did not ascend. Several boys had however 
mounted to the top in quest of rooks' nests, 
those birds being the only inhabitants of this 
once splendid structure. Beneath the abbey is 
a dungeon, appropriated formerly as a place of 
punishment for refractory nuns and friars. The 
garden which is enclosed by the walls of the 
abbey is still kept in perfect order. The abbey, 
with the surrounding lands, belongs to the Earl 
of Cardigan, who endeavors to prevent the 
further decay of the edifice by employing a 
person to take care of it.* 

In the evening I attended St. James' church, 
a modern building, entirely destitute of orna- 

* Some lines which I have seen which were written on 
[ 75 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

ment. This being Trinity Sunday, the sermon 
was appropriate to the occasion, and was de- 
livered by the preacher without notes. The 
Psalms were read by a clerk with a broad 
Yorkshire dialect, and sung in a most discord- 
ant manner. At Mr. O.'s I was introduced to 
the Kev. Doctor Kewley of New York, whose 
church in Beekman Street having recently been 
burned he was enabled while it was rebuilding 
to leave upon a visit to his friends in England. 
He politely gave me his address with an invi- 
tation to call upon him should I visit New York. 
22nd. Departed this morning in the coach 
for Manchester. The passengers were three 
agreeable ladies and a clever loquacious Scots- 
man. The last person was a great admirer of 
Doctor Franklin, whose works he had by heart 

Tintern Abbey are appropriate to this building. They are as 

follows : 

" How many hearts have here grown cold ; 

That sleep the mould'ring stones among. 
How many beads have here been told ! 

How many matins have been sung ! 
On this rude stone by time long broke 

I think I see some pilgrim kneel, 
I think I see the censer smoke, 

I think I hear the solemn peal. 
But here no more soft music floats, 

No holy anthems chaunted now ; 
All hushed except the ring dove's notes 

Low murm'ring from yon beechen bough." 

[ 76 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

and most liberally quoted from. The route was 
through Bradford and Halifax, large manufac- 
turing places. The country was very hilly and 
afforded many fine views. The road in one part 
of our journey ran alongside a steep and dan- 
gerous precipice, where the least deviation of 
the horses would have hurled us to destruction. 
At such an immense height were we that the 
inhabitants of a village below in the valley 
looked not larger than crows. We dined at 
Halifax. Upon our entrance the landlord's 
ruby-colored nose was brightened up with re- 
newed lustre and while rubbing his hands he 
congratulated us upon our arrival at his house 
" at (to use his own language) so fortunate a 
period ; as he had a fine fresh turbot for din- 
ner ; an article that I do not have more than 
twice a year." But alas ! this " fine, fresh 
turbot " when it came upon the table, carried 
conviction to every nose that the landlord had 
been very much deceived with regard to its 
freshness, or had been like Roque in the 
Mountaineers at " wonderful pains for a fort- 
night to keep it sweet." 

At a small village before we entered Roch- 
[ 77 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

dale it was their market day. The streets were 
crowded with women, men and children, the 
ugliest, dirtiest wretches I ever beheld ! The 
women in particular were the most shocking. 
Old and young had on large caps with two flaps 
at each side which hung down to their shoul- 
ders. On our appearance in the coach a mob of 
children were immediately let loose to chase 
after us to beg a penny. When we entered the 
suburbs of Manchester the atmosphere under- 
went a total change ; from its being very clear 
weather it became dull and foggy. The smoke 
which perpetually overhangs this city is the 
cause of it. The next day it rained incessantly. 
It seems as if this were forever the case. An 
anecdote is related of a foreigner asking a per- 
son from Manchester whether or not it had 
done raining yet ! This city like almost all the 
large towns in Great Britain has an infirmary 
for the reception of the indigent sick. The 
building is placed in a fine situation and is a 
handsome structure. The people of this coun- 
try are renowned for their charities. There is 
scarcely a place where there is not some insti- 
tution supported by private munificence for the 
[ 78 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

relief of the poor. They first are compelled to 
give largely by the " poor laws " ; to this are 
added immense voluntary contributions. Were 
it not for these donations the streets would 
swarm with beggars ; as it is, there are in the 
large towns a great many. I remarked an ad- 
vertisement stuck upon the walls by the civil 
authority offering two guineas reward each for 
the apprehension of thirty-seven men who had 
absconded and left their families upon the par- 
ish! This is one of the blessings of manufac- 
tories ! 

24th Left Manchester for Liverpool. The 
country looked very fine. The fields of wheat 
in particular gave fair promise of a fine crop. 
When I passed through the country upon my 
first arrival there was written upon every fence 
"no corn bill" — Government having passed 
a bill for the encouragement of the farmers, 
prohibiting the introduction of flour or corn into 
the kingdom for sale, excepting the price was 
above 80 shillings per quartern. The manufac- 
turing interest was violently opposed to the 
bill, upon the ground that if this restriction 
was off, foreign grain would be afforded much 
[ 79 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

cheaper than the home-raised. The ministers 
replied that if corn could be imported, there 
would not be any inducement for the farmers 
to raise any, and that consequently they must 
be dependent upon foreign nations for their 
supply. In London the populace were so much 
exasperated at this bill that they attempted to 
tear down a member of Parliament's house for 
voting for it, and the government had to em- 
ploy a military force to suppress the mob. 

Just at the entrance of Liverpool stands the 
mansion of Doctor Solomon, of Balm of Gilead 
memory. He has gulled the world to some pur- 
pose, if one were to judge from the splendor 
of his establishment. The stage fare from Man- 
chester to Liverpool, distance forty miles, is 
only six shillings. This is caused by the strong 
opposition, as there are eight or ten coaches 
continually running between those places. Be- 
sides the fare in the coach you have to pay the 
coachman one shilling per stage of about thirty 
miles, and the same to the guard whose busi- 
ness it is to take care of the luggage, &c. &c. 
Should the passenger refuse to pay the accus- 
tomed tribute he would inevitably be insulted. 
[ 80 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

You must pay also, at the inns, the chamber- 
maid sixpence a night, the "boots" (the per- 
son who cleans them) two-pence a day, and the 
head waiter one shilling a day. The porter who 
takes your portmanteau up stairs moves his 
hat with " pray remember the porter, Sir." 
In fact, it is necessary in travelling through 
England to have your pocket well lined with 
pounds, shillings and sixpences, otherwise you 
never can satisfy the innumerable demands 
made upon a traveller by landlord, waiters, 
chambermaids, and coachmen, &c. &c. My bill 
at Manchester for one supper, a dinner, a break- 
fast, and two nights lodging was five dollars. 
The beds at the inns are surprisingly neat and 
clean. In many of the inns in a large town, 
the chambermaids furnish the chambers and 
depend upon their fees for remuneration. The 
stagecoaches are very convenient and easy. No 
baggage is permitted to be taken inside, it be- 
ing stowed away in the boot places before and 
behind the carriage for that purpose. Here it 
rides perfectly safe, not being liable to be 
rubbed, as they ride upon the same springs 
that the passengers do. A person can always 
[ 81 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

calculate upon being at the place he takes the 
coach for (barring accidents) at a certain time, 
as the coachman is allowed a given time to go 
his stage. The guard always has a chronometer 
with him (locked up so that he cannot move 
the hands) as a guide with regard to time. 

In company with Mr. M. I went to the Liver- 
pool Theatre. It is a neat building but the per- 
formers were miserable. Many of the streets 
and squares in Liverpool are spacious and 
handsome. St. James' Walk is a fine prome- 
nade. At the back of it is a public garden laid 
out in a tasteful manner. From the terrace is 
a commanding view of the town and Cheshire 
shore, with the shipping lying in the river. The 
stone quarry is very near here. The entrance 
is through a subterraneous passage 60 yards in 
length, hewn through solid stone. All the stones 
necessary for the formation of the docks are 
taken from this place. The stone resembles the 
Connecticut red stone: it is quite liable to 
crumble into sand, but I am informed that the 
water hardens it. The trade to Liverpool is 
immense. A multitude of ships are now in the 
river waiting for a berth in the dock, which 
[ 82 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

they can only gain by some other vessel's going 
to sea. The large warehouses near the clocks, 
rising thirteen stories in height, and the bustle 
and noise in the streets show to the stranger 
that here "commerce is busy with her ten thou- 
sand wheels." 

25th. Dined this day with Mr. B., a large 
company of ladies and gentlemen present. 
Among them was a venerable clergyman of the 
dissenting persuasion. He spoke in the highest 
terms of the American clergy, with many of 
whom he had been personally acquainted, but 
one lately had offended him by a breach of po- 
liteness ; of him he observed to me that he was 
more conversant with religion than with good 
manners. Here again I was astonished at the 
amazing ignorance of a gentleman respecting 
the United States. He possessed such a know- 
ledge of his own country that he led me to 
suppose that he was joking when speaking of 
ours. He first remarked that we could not live 
as cheaply in America as in England. I pointed 
out the mistake to him, when he again ob- 
served " True, you may live as cheaply but you 
are obliged to eat salted meat in winter ! " He 
[ 83 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

was very much astonished when I informed him 
that even in that frozen and inclement season 
we had as good fresh provisions as were to be 
had in England. These errors respecting the 
United States have arisen from the misrepre- 
sentations of the English tourists and from its 
being the interest of the Government to keep 
up these impressions to prevent emigration. 1 
was asked the other clay in the stage-coach if 
the Americans all spoke English, and a gen- 
teel young lady at London was quite shocked 
to think I should prefer the " almost impene- 
trable woods of America " to England ! 

Mr. B. accompanied me to the Botanic Gar- 
den which is at the extremity of the town. It 
is supported by private subscription and con- 
tains four thousand different trees, plants and 
shrubs. The garden is kept in perfect order. 
Each subscriber has the liberty of introducing 
strangers. The walks of it are much resorted 
to as a fashionable promenade, thus combining 
pleasure with instruction ! 

27th This morning went to the Hercula- 
nemn Pottery, a short distance from town. Here 
both common and fine wares are manufactured. 
[ 84 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

These works employ about two hundred per- 
sons, men, women and children. Having an in- 
troduction from a gentleman at Liverpool to 
the intendant of the place, I received every 
possible attention in viewing the processes of 
the work. Some of the china was quite elegant. 
There were a great many very genteel looking 
men and women at work drawing the land- 
scapes upon the china ; many women were also 
engaged in laborious work, much more suitable 
for men, such as beating heavy lumps of clay, 
&c. &c. It is however quite the custom in 
Great Britain to make the fair sex bear at 
least one-half the burden of life, but I have 
frequently thought, when I have seen them 
ploughing, digging and reaping, that they have 
had the greatest part. On your entrance to the 
works you are presented with a card whereon 
is a request that you will not give the workmen 
any money, but if you are disposed, that you 
may contribute an offering to a fund appropri- 
ated to the instruction of the children of the 
workmen and to the relief of the sick. This is a 
praiseworthy regulation and should be adopted 
by every factory to which curiosity leads visit- 
[ 85 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

ants, as the workmen always expect some little 
present which is almost invariably applied to 
furnish drinks. 

In the afternoon went to Warrington. In 
the coach was a cotton dealer of Manchester 
with whom I had a spirited conversation respect- 
ing American affairs. The information he had 
concerning them he had obtained from British 
tourists and froin letters of the officers of the 
army who had served in the United States. He 
was quite prejudiced ; " the affair at New Or- 
leans was a mere brush ; Sir Geo. Prevost was 
never beaten at Plattsburgh ; and with a force 
of fifty thousand men they (the English) could 
conquer the Northern States." This last in- 
formation he had received from a publication 
entitled The Military Chronicle, wherein was 
a letter written by an officer who was at the 
capture of Castine and expressed the above 
opinion and also stated his opinion of Amer- 
ica generally, taking Castine as the place to 
govern his ideas of it. My travelling friend I 
could discover had taken pains to inform him- 
self respecting America, but the sources from 
whence he had drawn his knowledge were mis- 
[ 86 j 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

erably corrupt, and consequently had misled 
him. He had a general idea of the geographical 
situation of our country, but when he particu- 
larized he made me smile at the errors he com- 
mitted. Speaking of Boston he observed that 
he thought that with ten thousand men they 
could take it with ease. I pointed out the im- 
possibility of getting into our harbor ; he re- 
plied that he knew the difficulty of passing by 
the Fort of Castle William, and Noddles Island, 
but that they could land at the back side of 
Bunker Hill (an odd place for an Englishman 
to land at), as their ships in 1775 had laid there 
with ease. He supposed from this that there 
was another passage to the sea. After we had 
conversed a long time together, he observed 
that he had just such another tete-a-tete with 
an American before and that his name was 
Silliman. Mr. S. mentions this gentleman in 
his work, but I cannot agree with him with re- 
gard to the gentleman's correct information. 
— My companion and I parted at Warring- 
ton where I for the first time heard ballad 
singers. They carry ballads for sale, at the 
same time singing them to allure purchasers. 
[ 87 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

One of the women bore the appearance of hav- 
ing seen better days. She possessed a fine voice 
and sang but little inferior to many who sing 
at the London theatres. 

28th Went this morning to church. The 
place was neat. There were on the walls tablets 
with appropriate texts of Scripture inscribed 
on them. Part of the service was chanted in 
a very fine manner by a choir of women. The 
sermon, which was delivered in an oratorical 
manner, was upon the necessity of a renewal of 
the spirit to make us Christians. The congre- 
gation was extremely small, caused by the num- 
bers which have seceded from the Church and 
joined the Dissenters. After dinner my friend 
and myself set out for a farm house of his 
in a neighboring village, but being overtaken 
by a shower of rain we were compelled to seek 
shelter in a miserable hovel, which was occu- 
pied by a man who said he had been in the serv- 
ice of the Duke of Bedford for fourteen years. 
He was mixing some oatmeal cakes for his sup- 
per, the materials for which were on his bed 
as he had neither stool nor table in the apart- 
[ 88 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

ment, it being so small as to forbid the intro- 
duction of either. His fuel he kept under his 
bed, which of course was extremely dirty. On 
our jocosely asking him for his tap he told us 
that he had not tasted a drop of ale for six 
weeks. Amidst all this misery and wretched- 
ness the poor fellow seemed to be cheerful and 
happy ! The rain ceasing we were enabled to 
reach our destination. Here was a contrast to 
the last scene. Each apartment of the house 
was in the most perfect and neat order. At- 
tached to it was a charming garden, filled with 
a variety of flowers in full bloom. Some straw- 
berry vines were planted in a different manner 
from any I ever before noticed. Bricks were 
placed in the manner of steps upon the side of 
a terrace, between the interstices of which the 
roots were placed, and the tops lay upon the 
bricks. The reflection of the sun upon them 
serves to ripen the fruit, while they serve to 
prevent the berries from hanging into the dirt. 
I question however whether this manner of 
planting them would answer in America, as 
the bricks heated by our powerful sun would 
burn and destroy the vines. This way of culti- 
[ 89 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

vating them adds very much to the beauty of a 
garden. 

30 th Being a fine day we went to North wick 
to view the salt mines. The road lay through a 
charming country. We passed Belmont, an ele- 
gant mansion surrounded by an extensive park 
from which is an extensive view: the inhabitants 
upon this route are mostly employed in hus- 
bandry which may be plainly perceived by the 
neatness of their cottages and their comfortable 
appearance, contrasted with those in the man- 
ufacturing towns. 

Budworth is a pretty little village with an 
ancient stone church. A little beyond here we 
called in at a farmhouse, the occupier of which 
told me he gave six hundred and fifty pounds 
rent and taxes, for his farm of two hundred 
acres: he shewed me fifty fine cows valued at 
25 Guineas each. They were fine looking ani- 
mals and appeared to be much superior to any 
I ever saw in America. He makes 7 tons of 
cheese Pr. Year. While he was here a wagon 
load of 3 tons weight was sent off to market 
to be sold. The dairy room was quite large, hav- 
ing vats of pewter to contain the milk which 
[ 90 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

keeps better in this manner than in any other. 
The farmers do not put their hay into barns as 
our farmers do, but stack it out in the fields, 
first pressing it very hard. When they use it 
they are obliged to slice it off with a sharp in- 
strument. A hay-mow half used looks similar 
to a loaf with slices cut from it. Here also was 
a garden laid out in the neatest manner imag- 
inable. The gooseberry bushes hung down with 
the weight of their fruit, but the currants did 
not seem to flourish, nor did I ever see any 
bushes of that kind which seemed to bear well 
anywhere in England. After partaking of a 
glass of home-brewed ale, we proceeded to the 
salt pit, where four persons, including myself, 
were lowered in a tub down a shaft of three 
hundred and fifty-five feet in depth. I must 
confess that before I got one half of the way 
down I heartily repented of my journey, but 
upon my arrival at the bottom I was amply 
repaid for all my fears. The first thing that 
saluted my sight was a stable of five horses em- 
ployed in removing the salt to the mouth of the 
shaft. The mine is excavated in length three- 
quarters of a mile, and width one-half. It is 
[ 91 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

about fifteen feet in height. The sides and top 
are regularly and squarely hewn. There are 
regular streets cut at right angles. The roof is 
supported by pillars twelve yards square. One 
of the workmen blasted the rock which is so 
hard as to resist everything but gunpowder. 
The noise of the explosion reverberating through 
the chasms was awfully loud and rolled along 
the mine like thunder. The whole place made 
a most brilliant appearance when illuminated 
by our candles ! About a year since, Mr. Can- 
ning visited this mine when it was lighted up 
with 1600 candles. I was not less alarmed in 
going up than in descending. The amazing 
depth of the shaft rendered apparently the light 
at the top like to a small star, but we arrived 
safely in the upper world after an absence of 
two hours. Here we saw the different processes 
of refining the rock. It is first soaked in a pit, 
the water of which becoming brine it is con- 
veyed into a pan under which is a slow fire, 
where it remains until the water evaporates and 
the salt remains at the bottom. Then it is taken 
and put into baskets in the shape of a sugar 
loaf and carried into the drying room, when it 
[ 92 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

soon becomes perfect and is fit for sale. The 
price of it for exportation is 4 d a bushel, but 
the people of England pay for home consump- 
tion (such is the enormous duty) 16 shillings 
for the same quantity. Excise men are always 
upon duty at the works to prevent any persons 
taking even the smallest quantity without the 
duty having been paid. So vigilant are they, 
and so heavy is the penalty for transgressing 
the law that should a piece of the rock be 
dropped by chance on the highway no one 
dares pick it up with an intent of using it ! 

I returned the same night to Warrington and 
the next day went to the city of Chester. At a 
short distance from the city we observed a gib- 
bet whereon hung the bodies of two men who 
were long ago executed for the robbery and 
murder of the post-boy. The appearance of the 
city as you enter it is very pretty, the trees 
among the houses giving it a lively effect. The 
place is very ancient. That part of it designated 
" the old part " is surrounded by walls. The 
width of the walk on top of these is sufficient 
for three persons to go abreast. At small dis- 
tances apart are remains of towers formerly 
[ 93 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

used as watch-towers, and at a short distance 
from the wall on one of the corners (the West) 
of the city is a large tower in a state of dilapi- 
dation which was connected to the great wall 
by a smaller one. The entrance to the town is 
through four spacious gates, situated north, 
south, east and west, the names they bear. The 
modern part of the city is extended consider- 
ably beyond the wall. Directly under one part 
of the wall lies the race ground which is the 
most complete of any in England, with regard 
to its natural situation. The ground on which 
the horses run is a perfect plane, while the 
hills and wall which surround it form it into a 
circus. There are several ancient churches here, 
and in some of them time has made sad havoc, 
as they are rapidly falling into decay. The foot 
passengers are in this city sheltered from the 
weather by the shops and houses projecting 
over in the form of a piazza having a walk 
under it. Chester Castle is a most noble build- 
ing which stands upon an eminence and over- 
looks the city. The entrance to the yard is 
through a noble gateway. On the right stands 
the Armory and on the left the barracks for 
[ 94 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

the soldiers stationed here. The principal build- 
ing is appropriated as a house for the governor 
of the castle and as a court house and prison. 
The prison is conducted something similar to 
the State prison at Charlestown. The prison- 
ers are confined in such a manner that the 
keeper can overlook them (while at work) from 
his apartment. The appearance of the governor's 
house with several young ladies dressed in high 
fashion was but illy calculated to inspire one 
with the gloomy thought of its being a place 
of pain and imprisonment. The whole edifice is 
formed of a light-colored stone and planned in 
such a manner as to conceal the purpose for 
which it was erected. The place where the 
courts are held is a pretty room, the ceiling be- 
ing pannelled. In the bar is a trap door, be- 
neath which is a sub-terranean communication 
with the cells of the prisoners, who are through 
it brought into court. In the bar is also an iron 
affixed for the purpose of confining the hands of 
those who are sentenced to be burnt in the hand, 
which punishment is put into execution in pre- 
sence of the court. A short time ago a fellow 
thus sentenced bore the iron without flinching 
[ 95 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

and then tore out with his teeth the disgraceful 
mark and spit it on the floor. 

Returned in the evening to Warrington and 
the next day set out for Manchester. On June 
2nd in company with Mr. Bangs walked thirty- 
two miles to view the peak of Derbyshire. Our 
road was through Stockport, a large manufac- 
turing town, with nothing worthy of notice ex- 
cepting the narrowness of the street, and the 
steepness and length of its hills. The country 
generally was well cultivated. At a neat inn at 
Hazel Grove or Bullock Smithy, we dined with 
an excellent appetite and afterwards continued 
on through the village of Dishley until we ar- 
rived at Whally-Bride, — a most romantic sit- 
uation. Directly under the window of the inn 
ran a small river over which was a bridge. 
Beyond this, upon the side of an eminence, 
stood a cluster of cottages whose white walls 
formed a charming contrast with the green vines 
which overspread them. At 5. in the evening 
we reached Chapel in the Forth, a tolerably 
neat village, and afterward ascended a very 
high mountain, from the top of which was a 
very extensive view. We took the wrong road 
[ 96 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

and were progressing toward Chesterfield when 
we stopped at an alehouse, the master of which 
informed us of our mistake and directed us 
into a foot path whereby we might regain the 
right road ; but we soon again missed the path 
and we were induced to think, as it grew dusky 
that we must be upon the " barren mountain 
starved," as there was no probability of our 
meeting any person to direct us. "We continued 
on for some time in this uncertainty, until at last 
we espied at some distance a cottage, and after 
making up to it were directed on our way ; fol- 
lowing our directions we came to the ruins of an 
old castle, which we found situated upon an emi- 
nence directly over the village of Castleton. The 
immense height of the precipice made us shrink 
back with terror when we approached the brink 
and looked over it. After supper we retired to 
bed much fatigued from our long walk, and in 
the morning after having engaged a guide, we 
visited the Cavern, or Peak's Hole. There is a 
small rivulet which takes its rise in or beyond 
the Cavern, over which we crossed by a little 
stone bridge to gain the entrance of the cave. 
This entrance is in the side of the mountain 
[ 97 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

over whose brink we had looked the night be- 
fore. In the mouth of the cavern are two small 
cottages inhabited by persons whose occupa- 
tion is spinning of twine. One of them, an old 
woman, told us that she was born in this place 
and had always lived here. At a door beyond, 
candles are given you to light you into the in- 
terior, into which we proceeded until the roof 
became so very low that it almost seemed to 
touch a piece of water which reached athwart 
the cavern. We then entered a little boat and 
lay upon our backs while our guide waded into 
the water and shoved us along until we arrived 
at a cavern of great dimensions. Following our 
conductor we soon came to another cavern called 
Roger Rain's house, from its continual dropping 
water from the roof. Here we were surprised 
at the beautiful appearance of candles which 
some boys held in a gallery at a vast height 
above us. They appeared at an immense dis- 
tance and resembled brilliant stars. We next 
descended into the Devil's Cellar the walls of 
which are inscribed with the initials of the vis- 
itors' names. The guide invited us to follow this 
example, but having no disposition to be in the 
[ 98 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Devil's books we did not accept the proposition. 
We proceeded until we came to the extremity 
of this wonderful cavern, which is 2250 feet 
from the entrance. The guide waded through 
the water under a low arch twenty live feet 
farther than the visitors generally go. We were 
here saluted with a blast of gunpowder, the 
noise of which was tremendously loud and gave 
us a shock which electrified us. The water 
flows through a part of these caves in a beauti- 
ful streamlet, the bottom of it composed of 
white pebbles. It loses itself under ground, in 
one of them, and makes its appearance again at 
the mouth of the cavern. When we returned 
the daylight at the entrance of the cave was in- 
describably beautiful. After we had partaken 
of some refreshments we went to view the 
Speedwell mine. This mine was worked for 
lead, but after the proprietors had expended 
fourteen thousand pounds sterling it was found 
not to answer the purpose. The guide to it 
lives in a little cot at its entrance. Here we 
descended one hundred and six steps : at the 
bottom of them was a boat, into which we en- 
tered and were ferried through a passage cut 
[ 99 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

out of solid rock just large enough to permit a 
person to sit upright in the vessel. This passage 
is 2300 feet in length, and terminates in a 
cavern called the Devil's Hall. Here we were 
700 feet from the surface of the earth. The 
roof of the cavern has never been seen. Rock- 
ets have been sent up for that purpose, but 
without effect. Here is a grate which divides 
the cavern from the abyss down which the 
water tumbles, making a tremendous noise. 
Our guide assured us that he had been lowered 
into this gulf for the distance of three hundred 
feet, until he arrived at the surface of the 
water which he tried with a line of one hundred 
and seventy feet in length, but could not find 
bottom. When the mine was worked, the rub- 
bish that came out was for the period of five 
years thrown into this chasm, but to all appear- 
ance this has not in the least diminished its 
depth. 

Castleton is romantically situated in a fer- 
tile valley, well watered by the stream proceed- 
ing out of the cavern. The inhabitants are re- 
markably healthy. Their occupation consists of 
mining and husbandry. The church is a neat 
[ ioo ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

building and contains the following remarkable 
epitaph which is inscribed in Latin to conceal 
as much as possible the scepticism of the person 
who ordered it to be put upon his tombstone. 
The man's name was Micah Hall, who lived 79 
years. It is as follows : 

" What I was you know not ! 
What I am you know not ; 
Whither I am gone you know not ; 
Go about your business ! " 

We were not a little surprised at our landlord's 
informing us that the way we came into Castle- 
ton was extremely dangerous, abounding in pits 
and precipices, where one false footstep would 
have hurled us to destruction ! 

Having seen all the curiosities at Castleton, 
at five in the evening we took a post chaise for 
Buxton. The road is through a valley which 
divides the mountains surrounding the village. 
We passed the ebbing and flowing well. This 
is at the bottom of a steep hill. The water at 
irregular periods, according to the wetness, or 
dryness of the season, rises and falls in the 
manner of the tide. It was bubbling and dis- 
charging its waters when we passed it. Buxton 
[ ™i ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

is very charmingly situated, entirely surrounded 
with hills. The Crescent is a fine row of build- 
ings built by the Duke of Devonshire for the 
accommodation of those persons who resort 
hither for the benefit of the waters. These 
waters are of great benefit in gouty and rheu- 
matic complaints. There was a great deal of 
genteel company here. At a short distance from 
the Crescent is a fine walk through which flows 
a streamlet of water forming several cascades 
as it runs. The walks are planted with trees 
and at certain distances are seats for the pro- 
menaders. I think Buxton superior in beauty 
to any place I have seen in England, yet Bath 
is said to be much superior. In the afternoon 
of the next day, left in the coach for Manches- 
ter, where I arrived the same evening and found 
it the same dull, smoky, rainy hole as ever ! I 
left Manchester without any regret at the pos- 
sibility of my never seeing it again, and arrived 
at Liverpool. In the coffee-room of the Inn a 
traveller was giving a lively description of a 
pugilist's battle between two scientific fighters. 
The bare recital of it I should suppose would 
make a person of humanity shudder. One of 
[ 102 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

the combatants was carried off the field with 
his jaws broken, vomiting blood. This is called 
amusement for a refined people ! An English- 
man will say it serves to stimulate the courage 
of the common people ! I am sure it brutalizes 
them and augments their ferocity, for no sooner 
does a little dispute chance to arise than an 
appeal to blows is resorted to, to settle it. So 
much are they in love with boxing that if two 
boys get to quarrelling, men, women and chil- 
dren will endeavour to add fuel to their resent- 
ment, just for the pleasure of seeing a little 
fun! 

Being detained at Liverpool a few days by 
business, I passed my leisure hours in the Athe- 
naeum ; this afforded much amusement and dis- 
sipated that time which otherwise would have 
hung heavy on my hands. 

Sunday, 11th June. Attended this day (for 
the first time in England) a dissenting or Pres- 
byterian church. Doctor Lewin, the gentleman 
with whom I dined a short time since, was the 
preacher. He is 78 years of age, and was quite 
animated in his delivery. Generally speaking 
[ 103 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

there is not that ignorance of the American 
nation among the people of Liverpool that there 
is in other places in England. It obviously 
arises from the great intercourse that is carried 
on between this port and the United States. I 
have scarcely passed a day without meeting 
some one whom I have seen in America. There 
is a degree of liberality shown here to our coun- 
trymen which is not shown in other places. 
This evening " God save the King " was called 
for at the theatre, when an American sailor 
loudly exclaimed from the gallery "God d — n 
the king and all the rest of 'em ! " Yet the only 
notice taken of this was by a general laugh at 
Jack's republicanism. Had he been in London 
the mob would have torn him to atoms. 

June 15th. In company with three of my 
fellow-countrymen, Thomas Dennie, Isaac 
Barnes and Abbot Lawrence, I departed for 
London. There is something inexpressibly 
pleasant in meeting and associating in a foreign 
country with those with whom you have been 
acquainted at home. Our journey was very 
pleasant. On our road through Staffordshire we 
passed the potteries of Burslem and Hanley, 
[ 104 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

as also several collieries where at the mouth of 
the pits steam engines were erected to draw up 
the coals. Near Burslem, from the top of a very- 
high hill, there is a commanding view of the 
countiy. Hanley is quite a pretty place and con- 
tains some fine houses. At Tutbury passed near 
the ruins of the castle of that name. It stands 
upon an eminence and entirely commands the 
town, which lies directly under its walls. This 
castle was once the prison of Mary, Queen of 
Scots. The walls are now almost entirely de- 
molished. At Uttoxeter we changed horses. The 
Inn was directly opposite an ancient church 
whose graveyard was filled by a rabble of boys, 
pedlars' stalls, etc. and seemed to be a common 
thoroughfare. It is shocking to behold the ashes 
of the dead outraged in this manner, but in 
this country I have remarked too often that the 
dead are trodden upon whenever it suits the 
convenience of the living. We dined at Burton, 
a charmingly neat and clean town particularly 
famed for its good ale. Crossing the river, over 
which is a stone bridge, the next place we 
stopped at was Leicester, a place noted for its 
manufactory of stockings. This is also a very 
[ 105 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

neat town. We passed a great many country 
seats, and at Northampton changed horses. The 
inn where we stopped was in a large square 
which adds much beauty to the place. At a 
short distance from the town stands a stone 
cross, erected by Edward the First in memory 
of his beloved wife Eleanor, whose body rested 
here on its way to London. Lace-making seems 
to be the principal employment of the people 
hereabout. " Pillow and bobbin appears to be 
all their little store " in most of the cottages 
we saw. The day being fine enabled us to have 
a good view of London as we entered it. We 
arrived at five in the afternoon, being just 
thirty-six hours in travelling two hundred and 
ten miles. I found on my arrival a notice that 
all aliens should report themselves to the Man- 
sion House. Accordingly the next day I went 
thither and found the Lord Mayor examining 
a wretched looking woman with a child in her 
arms upon a charge of theft. The examination 
was conducted with much mildness on the part 
of the Mayor. He is a pastry cook by profes- 
sion, and is still concerned with his nephew, 
who carries on the business not far from the 
C 106 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Mansion House. I received (after I had regis- 
tered my name) directions to call in six days 
for a license to reside here. 

On going through the Royal Exchange I 
was peculiarly struck with the variety of dress 
in the crowd of merchants assembled there. 
Here were Christian, Turk and Jew. In walk- 
ing the city a person meets such a variety of 
fashion in dress that it is impossible to tell the 
prevailing one. A man must possess consider- 
able talent to make himself notorious for dress 
or equipage in this great city. Even Romeo 
Coates, the amateur actor, when he first made 
his appearance in a dashing curricle ornamented 
with a cock as his crest, had to employ some 
boys to cry " Cock-a-doodle-doo " to bring it into 
notice. 

Being near Eastcheap today I tried to dis- 
cover the Boar's Head, but was unsuccessful. 
This is where Sir John Falstaff and Prince 
Henry had their "cup of sack." 

At a window in a print shop my eye was 
attracted by a print in glaring colors purport- 
ing to be the Capture of Washington. It rep- 
resented a strongly fortified place, compared to 
[ 107 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

which Quebec and Gibraltar were nothing. 
The British troops were marching over a breast- 
work of dead Americans in the face of a bat- 
tery of cannon blazing at them. In the back- 
ground was the " President's Palace " (as the 
explanation informed me) and eight or ten 
seventy-fours in flames. This is the mere idea 
of the print seller, but the British Government 
tried all in their power to make this circum- 
stance popular. They were unsuccessful. Many 
Englishmen have acknowledged to me that it 
was a stain on their national character which 
cannot be obliterated. 

17th In the evening went to the Opera. 
This is a most splendid house, having five rows 
of boxes above which is a gallery to admit per- 
sons who are not in full dress, as they are ex- 
cluded from all other parts of the house. The 
boxes are all private and are rented at from 
three hundred to one thousand pounds a season. 
This immense building crowded with company 
in full dress is a charming sight. The scenery 
is elegant, but as the performances were in 
Italian I could not make out what the subject 
was that was represented. The band is very 
[ 103 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

large and the music excellent. There was some 
fine dancing, particularly Nestri's, but the 
manner of the female dancing was very indeli- 
cate, to my ideas ! In not understanding Ital- 
ian I was in the same situation as the greater 
part of the audience, who attend here in pre- 
ference to the English Theatre merely because 
it is fashionable ! I was quite amused with the 
Bond Street loungers who came into the gal- 
lery where I was, to look at the ladies. One of 
them, dressed in the extreme of fashion, with 
a chapeau under his arm, took his station op- 
posite to two pretty girls who sat upon a seat 
in front of me, and taking out his quizzing 
glass he most impudently stared them in the 
face as long as he could keep one eye open and 
the other shut. I have seen these fellows rep- 
resented upon our stage and thought it a cari- 
cature, but I now think the original a great 
deal the worst. 

Having a desire to see Royalty I attended 
the Chapel Royal, St. James' Palace, to see 
the Princess Charlotte, * probably the future 

1 Princess Charlotte was the only daughter of the Prince 
Regent, afterward George IV, and Queen Caroline ; horn 
1796 ; died 1817. 

C 109 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Queen of England. This chapel is in the court- 
yard of the palace. The entrance is through a 
small door into a dark and narrow passage 
which carries you into the chapel. This is 
quite a confined room and not at all elegant. 
The ceiling is panelled and ornamented with 
the coats of arms of the nobility. The Princess 
came in attended by several lords and ladies, 
and took her seat in the gallery opposite to 
where I stood. She has a pretty face and eyes, 
with the buxomness of a country lass. Her 
dress was a purple pelisse edged with white, 
with a French fashioned bonnet and a wreath 
around it. She had not the least gentility of 
appearance and her manners were shockingly 
vulgar, particularly when she stood up. She 
had then a kind of rolling about, and kept her 
arms akimbo. She took very little notice of the 
service and seemed, from her uneasiness, to 
wish that it were ended. The singing and chant- 
ing of the service was very fine, as the first 
performers are here engaged. The preacher was 
a courtly looking man, who mounted the " ros- 
trum with a skip," preached elegantly for half 
an hour about — nothing at all, made his bow 
[ no ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

and backed down the pulpit stairs (for he was 
too polite to turn his back upon royalty), and 
made his exit. I was much better pleased in 
the evening at the service of the Foundling 
Hospital, where the same preacher officiated 
whom I had heard some weeks ago. The an- 
them was sung by Mr. Pyne of Covent Garden 
Theatre. The subject of the discourse was 
"None of us liveth to himself." 

Some Bostonians of my acquaintance whom 
I visit, lodge in the coffee house so much fre- 
quented by Addison, Steele and Johnson, and 
from whence so many of their admirable essays 
are dated. It then went by the name of " Will's 
Coffee-house," but is now called " Richard's." 

20th Last night went to Covent Garden 
Theatre to see Miss O'Neil as Euphrasia in 
The Grecian Daughter. Her representation of 
this character was exquisitely fine. Mr. Young 
personified Evander. I never saw a tragedy 
which took such hold on my feelings as this 
did. Even the inferior parts were sustained by 
performers whose talents were above mediocrity. 
The concluding scene where she stabs Diony- 
sius drew forth repeated plaudits from a house 
[ 111 J 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

filled in every corner : were it not for the at- 
tractions of the performances, the interesting- 
sight of hundreds of well-dressed people in the 
pit and boxes would amply repay one for his 
attendance. The after piece was " The Forty 
Thieves," and I feel proud for the theatrical 
fame of America to be able to say that the re- 
presentation, both as to acting and scenery, 
was quite inferior to that which we had on the 
Boston boards, when Mrs. Darley and Mr. 
Bernard took a part in the performance. 

Near Carlton House the residence of the 
Prince Regent, Mr. West's two pictures of 
Christ Rejected and Christ healing the Sick 
are exhibited. The last is painted expressly 
for the hospital at Philadelphia, and, it is said, 
surpasses the original one which was painted 
for that institution and by the sale of which 
Mr. West incurred an imputation of ungen- 
erous conduct. This he seems to be aware of, 
and has exerted himself to produce this mas- 
terpiece of painting, for the loan of which 
for two years he has refused three thousand 
guineas. The meek and beautiful countenance 
of our Saviour, and the anxiety of the friends 
[ 112 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

of the lame, halt and blind, together with a 
sick man borne along by two figures, to be 
healed, are admirably painted. The correctness 
with which the effects of the different diseases 
upon the human frame are delineated is the 
admiration of medical men, and shows with 
what attention and care the painting of this 
piece has been prosecuted. The picture of 
" Christ Rejected " I think far preferable to the 
one described. The meekness of Him who was 
borne " like a lamb to the slaughter " ; the 
diabolical passions expressed by his persecut- 
ors ; (the High Priest in particular) ; the grief 
of Peter who is " weeping bitterly," and the 
agony of the pious women from Galilee at be- 
holding Him " whom they loved " bound as a 
malefactor ; raises doubts in the mind of the 
spectator whether the scene is not real; and 
almost carries one to the hall of condemnation. 
Carlton House is a gloomy pile of buildings 
faced by a colonnade ; but the interior, it is 
said, surpasses most palaces in magnificence ; 
behind it is Warwick House, an ill-shapen build- 
ing, the residence of the Princess Charlotte. All 
communication with her is through her father's 
[ 113 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

palace, as all other entrances are closed up. 
This is caused by her running away from her 
keepers some time ago and jumping into a 
hackney coach, which carried her to her mo- 
ther ! Mr. Tierney made a motion in Parlia- 
ment a few days ago that the amount of the 
Prince Regent's debts should be laid before 
the House. The result was that the debts 
amounted to six millions, five hundred and 
seventy-seven thousand, seven hundred and 
seventy-six dollars, and sixty-seven cents, of 
which one million, four hundred and sixty-six 
thousand six hundred and sixty-six dollars and 
sixty-seven cents remained unpaid the 1st of 
May, 1815. Here is one of the blessings at- 
tached to a regal government. 

Going into a wholesale hosier's warehouse 
with a friend who was making purchases, we 
received an invitation to look at the hosier's 
race-horses : in the stable behind the warehouse 
were two which he kept for his amusement. 
One of them he offered to back against any 
horse in England for £500. He showed us a 
cup which this animal had won at Newmarket 
races. His parlor was ornamented with the 
[ H4 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

portraits of these favorite animals. This I 
thought pretty well for a hosier ! 

Passing through St. James' Park after din- 
ner I overheard two fashionable young men 
bidding each other " good morning ! " The 
lateness of the hour impelled me to see what 
time it was ; I found it just eight in the even- 
ing ! These are imitators of the Prince, who 
never dines until nine at night. 

22nd. London is one continual scene of up- 
roar and joy in consequence of the total defeat 
of Bonaparte at Waterloo by Lord Wellington. 
This is announced by the Park and Tower 
guns and by placards upon the gates of the 
Mansion House. It is also publicly declared 
that upon Friday and Saturday nights the 
public buildings are to be illuminated on the 
occasion. 

Mr. D. of Boston having died suddenly, I 
was notified to attend his funeral, and accord- 
ingly went at 7 o'clock in the morning, being 
the time appointed. Those who were present 
were furnished by the undertaker with a pair of 
gloves, a mourning cloak and scarf. The hearse 
was followed by mourning coaches, preceded 
[ US ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

by two mutes bearing black banners. At the 
graveyard the corpse was met by the priest 
who performed the service in the episcopalian 
form. At the entrance of the yard on our return 
we were divested of our cloaks, weepers and 
gloves, the two latter of which we retained in 
remembrance of the deceased. Funerals here 
at this early hour are quite customary. Seldom 
is there any after one in the forenoon ! 

On Friday and Saturday night all the public 
buildings and many private ones were illumi- 
nated. Many fanciful and beautiful devices 
were exhibited. Among those which were promi- 
nently beautiful were the excise office, the Bank, 
Post-office, Somerset House, Admiralty, Horse 
Guards, Carlton House, Foreign and Home 
Department (here the eagles taken from the 
French were displayed), Lord Liverpool and 
Lord Castlereagh's houses, etc. One house in 
St. James' was particularly fine. The whole 
front resembled a fortress, with cannon, flags, 
&c, formed by colored lamps. A publican who 
keeps a tavern with the sign of a cock, had a 
large transparency representing a game cock 
strutting over his fallen combatant, with the 
[ H6 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

inscription " England the cock of the walk ! " 
The crowd was very great, particularly in front 
of Somerset House. The mob would not suffer 
the coaches to pass excepting the coachmen 
and footmen took off their hats as an acknow- 
ledgment of the favor. Squibs and crackers 
were plentifully distributed into the carriages, 
and the alarm which the ladies were conse- 
quently thrown into appeared to delight John 
Bull exceedingly. I did not return to my lodg- 
ing either night till one o'clock. This was 
early, as it is not customary to get to bed 
here until twelve upon ordinary occasions. Of 
course the whole morning is lost in bed. At 
six in the morning there are but very few per- 
sons seen in the streets. The customary break- 
fast hour in the house where I boarded was 
from nine to ten. This too was called an early 
one! 

Finding myself a little indisposed on Sunday 
morning, Mr. M. and I took a ramble into the 
country. On our way we observed a mean- 
looking brick building resembling a barn, on 
the walls of which was inscribed in very large 
letters " The House of God." It belongs to the 
[ 117 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

followers of Joanna Southcott, 1 and is appro- 
priated as their chapel. We returned to town 
to dine, and in the evening attended the Mag- 
dalen, the account of which I have given else- 
where. 

26 th. Went to day to the British Institution 
for the Encouragement of Fine Arts, and Bul- 
lock's Museum. The institution contains a very 
large and splendid collection of paintings by 
Rubens, Rembrandt, Vandyk and other artists 
of the Dutch and Flemish schools. One picture 
(the subject an old woman by candle-light) 
was finely executed. After seeing the pictures 
in this gallery a person can readily believe what 
has been related of an ancient painter, that his 
works were so naturally executed that birds 
came and pecked at a bunch of grapes which 
he had painted ! Bullock's collection surpasses 
Peale's at Philadelphia in some of the depart- 
ments, particularly in some of the branches of 

1 Johanna Southcott died at London, 1814. A religious 
fanatic, founder of a sect (still in existence in England) at 
one time numbering 100,000 followers. She wrote prophecies 
in doggerel verse, and, professing to be the inspired woman 
of the Apocalypse, announced in 1814 that she was about 
to give birth to the Shiloh. Ten days after making this an- 
nouncement she died of the dropsy. 

[ US ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

natural history. There are several complete sets 
of armor used in this country in former times. 
The collection of fossils and minerals was re- 
spectable, but that of the birds and beasts was 
very fine indeed. The birds are in mahogany 
cases and are arranged in classes, being placed 
upon the boughs of trees. This gives them a 
very pretty effect, but the beautiful manner 
in which the beasts were disposed pleased 
me exceedingly. The spectator enters into a 
saloon the rustic appearance of which trans- 
ports you at once into the wilderness. The 
thatched roof is supported by the trunks of 
trees, the branches from them mingling together 
form sashes which are glazed. Through the 
glass are seen the beasts, some roaming o'er 
the rocky cliffs, others crouching in their dens : 
in other parts are monkeys perched upon cocoa 
trees throwing the fruit to their companions. 
Interspersed among them were foreign trees 
and shrubs. Directly over the lions' den hung 
a large winter squash. Here it is esteemed a 
curiosity ! In short I cannot do justice to 
tins admirable collection. It was with pleasure 
I observed several mothers instructing their 
[ 119 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

children (by the aid of books which are sold 
here for the purpose) in the history of these 
animals. Returning home I passed through Bond 
Street, and beheld a great display of fashion- 
ables. Some of the ladies were curiously dressed; 
their gowns were cut very low so as to leave 
their shoulders bare, while their clothes reached 
but very little below their knees. In the Strand 
are a great many jeweler's shops. At the win- 
dow of one was exhibited a large assortment 
of snuff-boxes, the prices varied from 150 to 
700 Guineas each. That he finds purchasers I 
have but little doubt, for the other day an ad- 
vertisement appeared in the public papers an- 
nouncing the sale of Sir Gregory Turner's 
"splendid collection of ninety-one superb snuff 
boxes." In the Strand is also to be seen a full 
grown ox with five legs ; the fifth one grows 
out of his back and has a perfect shoulder re- 
sembling much a lobster's claw. The English 
are forever upon the alert to make money 
out of everything. No sooner was the dreadful 
slaughter of the battle of Waterloo known than 
half a dozen advertisements appeared in the 
newspapers offering mourning to the relatives 
[ 120 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

of the deceased, and one person offered to con- 
tract with them to remove the dead bodies to 
England, he having (as he states) formed a 
connection in Brussels for that purpose. 

27th. Went to Vauxhall Garden, which to 
attempt an adequate description of would be 
impossible ! The entrance is through a gloomy 
passage at the end of which you pass through 
a small door and are immediately transported 
into one of the fairy scenes of the Arabian 
Tales, as it all appears enchantment. It is 
lighted up with variegated lamps, fancifully 
arranged so as to give a brilliant effect. The 
walks are very long and have at their side 
seats and tables set out with refreshments suffi- 
cient for accommodating several thousands. 
The rotunda is illuminated by a chandelier 
and is ornamented with paintings. Adjoining 
is the saloon, at the corners of which are em- 
blems of the four quarters of the globe. Here 
is an orchestra, with a band habited in the 
Scottish costume and it plays only Scotch 
tunes. In the centre of the garden is the grand 
orchestra wherein a fine band amused the com- 
pany. Mr. Bland sang one song with great 
[ 121 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

effect. Each verse ended with these words : — 
" a sweet little bird warbles No ! no ! " This 
" no, no " was echoed by another performer 
from a recess of the garden. At 10 o'clock 
upon the ringing of a bell the company 
scampered down a long walk where was ex- 
hibited a curious piece of mechanism in a 
scene where there was a bridge and miller's 
house, beyond a real waterfall, the water 
tumbling down the rock and running under 
the bridge ; a little boat is seen having in 
it a sportsman who shoots and kills a little 
bird flying over his head. Horses and carriages 
are passing over the bridge ; — that of a stage- 
coach, the guard blowing his horn, was quite 
natural. The scene is then changed to an en- 
campment with a triumphal procession of 
horse and foot-soldiers to conclude. At the ex- 
tremity of another walk was the representation 
of a sea-fight ; to help the illusion, the noise of 
real water dashing against the sides of ships 
was produced. In another part of the garden 
a man performed several tunes upon seven in- 
struments at once. This he did by the aid of his 
feet, which he seemed to have a perfect com- 
[ 122 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

mand of. At eleven o'clock the nobility and 
fashionables began to enter, when there was a 
grand display of dress, for most all who are 
here appear in full dress. I should imagine 
there were from four to five thousand persons 
promenading the walks this night. At twelve 
the fireworks commenced. These were exhib- 
ited at the end of dark walks, They surpassed 
anything of the kind I ever beheld ! At two 
o'clock the party to which I belonged left the 
garden, as the dances had begim, this being 
the signal for the departure of respectable 
ladies. Fifteen thousand lamps are lighted in 
these gardens each night they are opened. 

As I was coming through Finsbury Square 
one evening, I saw a man with a large tele- 
scope in the street, intent upon looking at the 
stars, and upon my expressing my surprise at 
its singularity, my companion informed me 
that this person stood there to accommodate 
any one to look through the instrument, for 
which he charges two-pence. This is one of the 
wonderful variety of ways they have of making 
money in London ! 

On Saturday night attended Drury Lane 
[ 123 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Theatre to see the comedy of Wild Oats repre- 
sented. It was excellently well performed, the 
parts being sustained by Elliston, Dowton, 
Munden and Knight. The last performer, in 
the character of Sim, excelled beyond every- 
thing. I went into the pit which was crowded 
with ladies and gentlemen so full that I was 
obliged to stand up for some time until a gen- 
tleman by hard squeezing contrived to let me 
have a part of a seat, just affording me room 
sufficient to half sit down. I was soon relieved 
from this awkward situation by a lady (who 
was it appears an old attender on the play- 
house) having brought in a small stool upon 
which she sat down directly behind me, and as 
there was not room sufficient otherwise, thrust 
her lap directly under me and furnished a com- 
fortable seat during the rest of the evening. 

Sunday I passed at Camberwell-grove, a 
sweet village about three miles from London. 
I think this place a delightful spot. The grove 
resembles the Boston Mall, and is one mile in 
length. On each side are genteel houses with 
gardens laid out in a tasteful manner; at the 
upper end of the grove are two pretty cot- 
[ 124 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

tages witli thatched roofs, one of them having 
a fountain before it, in the centre of which 
is a sea-god upon a throne of shells, &c. The 
residents of these houses are principally mer- 
chants who here retire from the bustle and 
noise of the city. After tea we took a ramble 
into an adjoining village from which is a fine 
view of London and Greenwich, and at night 
returned to the city. Lord Cochrane of whose 
confinement I have spoken in my visit to the 
King's Bench prison, yesterday revenged him- 
self upon the ministry (whether intentionally 
or not I do not know) in a manner which has 
caused much public conversation. His term of 
imprisonment was ended the 18th of last June, 
but as he refused to pay the XI 000 fine he 
was detained in prison. The ministry have lately 
brought forward a bill in Parliament granting 
the Duke of Cumberland £6000 per annum 
additional income upon his marriage with the 
Princess of Salm Salms. This bill not being 
popular, Lord Castlereagh had to drum up all 
the absent ministerial members to vote it 
through, when as they were taking the ques- 
tion, Lord Cochrane, having paid his fine and 
[ 125 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

obtained his discharge, came into the House of 
Commons and by his single vote negatived the 
bill. On the back of the bank-note which he 
paid to government he wrote a protest, stat- 
ing that he was forced to comply as the ill state 
of his health demanded that he should be lib- 
erated. 

Fourth of July. Dined with a friend at 
Dolly's chop-house. This house was formerly 
kept by a woman whose name was Dolly, and 
to perpetuate her name, a female servant at- 
tends upon customers (which is not the case in 
other chop-houses) who, let her name be what 
it will, is still called Dolly. This place is much 
frequented by the booksellers, as it is adjoin- 
ing Paternoster Row, where the principal book- 
sellers prosecute their business. I was not a 
little amused at meeting near London with a 
party of sailors having the American flag dis- 
played in honor of Independence Day. They 
were headed by a Jew playing upon a hand- 
organ. Each one had his girl with him, and 
the procession was closed by two large negroes 
each with a white girl under his arm. 
[ 126 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

7th. Went to Covent Garden Theatre. The 
play was the Exile of Siberia, with the enter- 
tainment of the Critic, or Tragedy Rehearsed. 
In this piece, Matthew, in Sir Fretful Plagia- 
rist, exhibited his uncommon comic powers. 
During the evening a row was raised in conse- 
quence of Miss Stephens' not coming on to 
sing, as was announced in the bills. Babel was 
quiet and still in comparison with the house, 
nor was order restored until one person was 
taken by main force from the boxes. 

The Fishmongers' stalls and Butcher Shops 
are worthy of notice for the neatness and high 
perfection in which the articles for sale are 
kept. Although the fish was brought a great 
distance yet they are perfectly fresh and look 
as bright as when first taken. Many of them 
have white marble benches to display them 
upon. The meat also in the Butcher shops is 
displayed in as nice a manner ; indeed the way 
in which everything for sale is shown in Lon- 
don exceeds description. 

Last night during my walks I discovered a 
fire and after following the direction of the 
light for some time found that it was near the 
[ 127 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Tower, the turrets of which were beautifully 
illuminated by the flames. The crowd around 
the fire was immense ; the bustle of the fire- 
men and people moving their effects made the 
scene " confusion worse confounded." The place 
consumed was a gun-maker's shop, from whence 
some powder exploded and wounded several 
people. 

8th. Went into a room in the Strand where 
a man exhibits the process of glassmaking in 
miniature. This he does by means of a lamp 
through the blaze of which a current of air 
passes and blows the flame upon the metal until 
it melts. You pay a shilling for entrance, to 
be returned in ware, but he takes care to sell 
nothing less than eighteen pence. The alterna- 
tive then is, to save a shilling you have to throw 
away sixpence. The room was crowded with 
spectators, among whom were several ladies 
with children to whom they were explaining 
the process of glass-making. 

It being the Jewish Sabbath I was induced 

to visit the Synagogue near Duke Street, the 

residence exclusively of these Shylocks. The 

church is a neat edifice. It is lighted with seven 

[ 128 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

chandeliers, the pulpit, or desk, where the 
priests stand being in the centre : at the end is 
the altar or holy of holies, toward which they 
turn their faces and bow while repeating their 
prayers. The men sit with their hats on. The 
women are in a screened gallery, apart from 
the men ! The service was chanted in Hebrew, 
the congregation joining in at times in " din 
most horrible." I came away disgusted with 
the little reverence they seemed to pay to that 
Being who pronounced them His chosen people ! 

I spent the Sabbath at Camberwell Grove. 
In the afternoon attended church and heard a 
good discourse from the nephew of the unfor- 
tunate Dr. Dodd. 1 On Monday I chanced to 
pass through Smithfield Market. Being market 
day I had a fair view of the great mart of flesh ; 
the quantity of sheep and cattle sold here upon 
these days is immense, and amounts to an in- 
credible number in the course of a year. 

Opposite Somerset House is erecting the 

1 William Dodd, 1729-1777 ; clergyman and author. In 
1777 he forged the name of Lord Chesterfield, his former 
pupil, to a bond for £4200, and in spite of the efforts of Dr. 
Johnson and other influential people to save him, he was exe- 
cuted at London. 

[ 129 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Strand Bridge. This magnificent structure is 
entirely of stone, having nine arches of great 
width. The pillars are twelve feet in thickness, 
ornamented with Tuscan columns. When it is 
completed it will be one of the most elegant 
structures of the kind in the Kingdom. It was 
begun in 1811 and will probably be finished in 
another year. This is designed as a toll bridge. 
The other bridges are all free. To give an idea 
of the passing in London I will make an ex- 
tract from an account of the numbers which 
are computed to pass over the respective bridges 
daily, viz., 





Blackfriars 


London 


Foot passengers 


61,069 


89.640 


Wagons 


533 


769 


Carts & drays 


1,502 


2,924 


Coaches 


990 


1,240 


Gigs 


500 


740 


Horses 


822 


764 



London Bridge is the great thoroughfare to the 
Continent. 

Several other bridges are projected, but 
none are begun excepting the Vauxhall one, 
which progresses but slowly. 

12th Today the Prince Regent prorogued 
[ 130 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

both Houses of Parliament. I went to see the 
splendid procession usual upon these occasions, 
and was fortunate enough to procure a situa- 
tion opposite the door of the House of Lords 
and close by the state-coach which was in wait- 
ing for the Prince. I was enabled thereby to 
have a fair view of his person : his form is per- 
fectly elegant, but his countenance exhibits the 
marks of intemperate habits. He was dressed 
in uniform. When he made his appearance 
there was but little acclamation among the 
people. "Now and then a voice cryd God save 
King Richard " and that was all ! The state 
coach is a great lumbering vehicle, carved and 
gilded all over. The inside was lined with crim- 
son velvet hung around with silk damask 
curtains. It was drawn by six cream-colored 
horses, each horse led by a groom in gold and 
scarlet livery. Their harnesses were crimson 
morocco with massive gold trimmings, and 
their manes and tails braided with blue rib- 
bons. There were also many noblemen's car- 
riages in the procession, whose livery and equi- 
pages were so splendid that they appeared to 
try which should most outvie each other. The 
[ 131 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

whole of the way from Carlton House to the 
House of Lords was lined with horse guards 
and the State carriage was surrounded by the 
Prince's own regiment. 

13th. This morning went to see Barker's 
panoramas of the Isle of Elba and of the bat- 
tle of the Heights of Montmartre before Paris 
in 1814. He is esteemed as the first artist in 
this line in the world, and after viewing his 
works no one, I am sure, would be disposed to 
dispute his claim to the title. The battle ap- 
pears to be raging around you, and you are at 
once carried by imagination amid scenes of 
horror and carnage. Through the smoke of the 
cannon is a view of Paris and its environs. The 
view of Elba is, I think, superior to the battle, 
it being so beautifully illusive as to make one 
almost forget he is in London and carries one 
at once to the far-famed residence of Bona- 
parte. The whole is incomparably well done. 
The water in particular appears of the same 
hue and the same glassy surface as reality. So 
deceiving is it that I am informed a Newfound- 
land dog belonging to a gentleman jumped over 
the railing which divides the painting from the 
[ 132 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

spectator and made a plunge at that part rep- 
resenting water, so much was he deceived by it. 
Crowds of spectators attend daily to repay the 
artist for his admirable work. 

The whole town has for some time past been 
agitated by the suicidal death of Mr. Whit- 
bread. 1 Many reports have, as usual upon such 
occasions, been circulated as to the cause, and 
many high eulogiums have been made upon his 
character even by his political opponents. The 
opposition party have by his death received a 
blow from which they will not for a long time 
recover. 

Lackington's Bookstore, near Finsbury 
Squai'e, is a capacious building, containing an 
immense number of volumes of books for sale, 
In this place they were extremely polite to 
strangers. I was desired to walk through the 
building. There were five large rooms, entirely 
filled with books and as many circular gal- 
leries filled likewise, — the whole lighted f rom 
the top by a skylight. This place is well worth 

1 Samuel Whitbread, born 1758; died July 5, 1815. An 
able advocate of parliamentary reform, religious and civil 
liberty, the abolition of slavery, and similar liberal causes ; 
a strong opponent of Pitt's war policy. 
[ 133 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

visiting. Lackington himself has retired to the 
country and takes no active part in the busi- 
ness. 

Sunday there was a collection at St. An- 
drew's Church for the sufferers by the battle 
at Waterloo. A Mr. Price delivered the ser- 
mon from Zechariah 14th, 6th and 7th. The 
substance of the discourse was similar to that 
in those beautiful lines of Dr. Beattie, viz. — 

One part ! one little part we scan; 

Through the dark medium of life's feverish dream; 

Yet dare arrange the whole stupendous plan 

If but that little part incongruous seem. 

Nor is that part perhaps what mortals deem: 

Oft from apparent ills our blessings rise. 

Oh ! then renounce that impious self-esteem 

Which aims to know the secrets of the skies, 

For thou art but of dust, be humble and be wise. 

On Monday, in company with a small party, 
took an excursion to Richmond. The road, lying 
upon the Thames bank was ornamented with 
many pretty houses and gardens. Kew Gardens, 
the favorite residence of George III, lay upon 
our right. The road was pretty, yet I think that 
many places in the United States can boast of 
as handsome seats, particularly around Boston, 
[ 134 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Hellgate near New York, and those which 
adorn the banks of the Delaware near Phila- 
delphia. But when we ascended Eichmond 
Hill ! — in the language of the poet : — 

" Heavens ! what a goodly prospect spread around, 
Of hills, and dales, and woods and lawns and spires, 
And glittering towns, and gilded streams, till all 
The stretching landscape into smoke decays. 
Enchanting vale ! beyond what ere the muse 
Has of Achaia or Hesperia sung ! 

vale of bliss ! O softly swelling hills ! 
On which the Power of cultivation lies, 
And joys to see the wonder of his toil." 

I was quite enchanted with the scene before 
me ! the winding of the "silvery Thames," the 
beautiful lawns gradually sloping from the 
houses upon its banks, and its charming walks 
overshadowed with trees, conspired altogether 
to render it a charming place. Numerous par- 
ties were enjoying themselves, either upon the 
grass plat or in sailing in pleasure boats on 
the river. One company was footing it to the 
music of the pipe and tabor. All appeared to 
be exhilarated ! Here it was that Thomson 1 

1 Thomson, James, 1700-1748. A poet and writer of plays, 
one of which, " Sophonisba," written in 1730, contained the 
famous line (which killed the piece) " O Sophonisba ! Sopho- 
nisba ! " parodied by every one as " Jemmy Thomson, 

[ 135 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

wrote his Seasons, and doubtless received in- 
spiration from the enchanting views around 
him. Our time did not permit us to visit that 
spot which he so much loved. I much wished 
it but was compelled to be content with drink- 
ing a glass of wine to his memory, having in 
view from the windows of our apartment those 
scenes which his pen has immortalized. We 
rambled through a part of Richmond Park, 
from which is a fine view of St. Paul's and 
Westminster Abbey. Upon the hill are many 
houses in the occupation of the nobility and 
gentry. One of them is built in imitation of a 
castle having its turrets fallen to decay and 
overgrown with ivy. The town of Richmond 
has nothing worthy of notice excepting the 
Bridge across the river. This has a very pretty 
effect at a small distance below it. When our 
carriage was ready I sincerely regretted to 
leave this sweet spot, and I think that one 
must be utterly insensible to the beauties of 
nature not to admire such a scene as Richmond 
Hill. The view from Milton Hill near Boston 

Jemmy Thomson ! " Also wrote the famous song " Rule 
Britannia." 

C 136 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

bears a faint resemblance to that of Richmond, 
and has I think the preference in one particu- 
lar, — the view of the sea ! while that of Rich- 
mond is " one boundless landscape " only ter- 
minated by the horizon. 

On Tuesday I received a note from Mr. C. 
informing me of the sudden death of his child. 
I immediately waited upon him and found him 
and Mrs. C. in the greatest affliction. Mrs. 
C.'s case was peculiarly distressing, sustaining 
the loss of an only child in a foreign land and 
not being acquainted with any female who 
could sympathize with her and offer consola- 
tion. Two English gentlemen who were entire 
strangers to them, having heard of their mis- 
fortune kindly offered their advice and services, 
and tendered the assistance of the female part 
of their family to Mr. C. One of them had the 
family grave opened to receive the body. The 
funeral took place upon Thursday morning. A 
priest of the dissenting persuasion attended on 
the occasion and offered prayers at the apart- 
ments of Mr. C. and also an address and prayer 
at the grave, which was in the same church- 
yard in which John Bunyan, author of Pilgrim's 
[ 137 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Progress lies buried. His tombstone was pointed 
out to me. 

Lounging in the park today I turned into 
the street which leads to Westminster Abbey, 
and went in once more to view that venerable 
building. I was not less interested than on my 
former visit there. I could not walk through 
this receptacle of the ashes of kings, warriors, 
statesmen, poets and other great men without 
instructive lessons on the vanity and shortness 
of life. Many of the monuments are so crum- 
bled by the hand of Time that their inscriptions 
are scarcely legible ; many are entirely effaced ! 
Yet with this knowledge of the folly of out- 
standing the lapse of ages, vanity still raises 
yearly new monuments, which three or four 
hundred years hence will puzzle the antiqua- 
rian in discovering for whom they were erected. 
I purchased a book here which gives a particu- 
lar description of the Abbey. In it is an ex- 
tract not inappropriate to be inserted here, 
Speaking of this building the author says " I 
have wandered with pleasure into the most 
gloomy recesses of this last resort of grandeur, 
to contemplate human life, and trace mankind 
[ 138 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

through all the wilderness of their frailties 
and misfortunes, from their cradles to their 
graves. I have reflected on the shortness of our 
duration here, and that I was but one of the 
millions who had been employed in the same 
manner, in ruminating on the trophies of mor- 
tality before me : that this huge fabric, this 
sacred repository of fame and grandeur would 
only be the stage for the same performances : 
would receive new accessions of noble dust: 
would be adorn'd with other sepulchres of cost 
and magnificence, would be crowded with suc- 
cessive admirers : and at last by the unavoid- 
able decay of time bury the whole collection 
of antiquities in general obscurity, and be the 
monument of its own ruin." — 

Saturday evening I attended the little 
theatre at the Haymarket. This house is only 
open in the summer for the exhibition of petit 
comedies and farces. One of the pieces repre- 
sented this evening satirized the English char- 
acter for the prevalence of suicide ; the other 
was an admirable production from the French, 
called the Beehive, wherein Matthews repre- 
sented an old inn-keeper (the master of the 
[ 139 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Beehive). His comic Powers kept the whole 
house in a roar. One of the dramatis personae 
was an officer who described everything by tech- 
nical language. The one who sustained that 
part bore a strong resemblance to the late 
Col. Tuttle and often reminded me of him. 

Sunday I walked to Highgate, a small village 
placed upon an eminence four miles from Lon- 
don. Thompson in his description of Richmond 
Hill denominates it one of the "sister hills." 
The prospect from this place is extensive, em- 
bracing a fine view of the city. Here is a cause- 
way built across a valley through which one of 
the great roads of London runs. It is of suffi- 
cient width for carriages to pass, and is formed 
of stone with a composition railing. I returned 
to the city by another road for the purpose of 
varying the excursion. It is almost incredible 
as to the number of persons who leave town on 
the Sabbath here for a ramble into the country. 
Vehicles of every descriptions, from the elegant 
barouche and chariot to the humble horse-cart, 
are put in requisition, and thousands of pedes- 
trians, men, women and children, crowd all the 
avenues of the city upon this day, being by 
[ 140 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

their occupations so much engaged on week-days 
as to prevent their enjoying this comfort. 

Being in want of a passport to enable me to 
leave the country, I was obliged to wait upon 
Mr. Adams, the United States Minister to the 
British Court, to obtain a paper to enable me 
to obtain one. I went accompanied by Dr. W. 
After walking about four miles, we found him 
at the west part of the town, in lodgings at a 
house in Harley Street. Over the front door 
was a signboard in large characters denoting 
that warm and vapor baths were to be had 
here. We were not at all pleased that the rep- 
resentative of the American nation should be 
so meanly lodged. This we thought was carry- 
ing his Republican simplicity a little too far! 
Mr. Adams treated us politely and furnished 
me with the necessary passport, being most 
particularly expressed in the following manner, 
viz., — " Age 26 years, Stature 5 feet, 10 
inches, Forehead high, Eyes blue, Nose aquiline, 
Mouth common, Chin round, Hair dark brown, 
Complexion clear, & Face oval." After we had 
called upon Mr. A. we went to visit Messrs. 
Alston, Leslie and Morse, American painters. 
[ 141 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Mr. Morse was on the eve of setting out for 
Liverpool to embark from there to the United 
States. He shewed us a painting of his which 
he had just finished to be exhibited at the 
Academy, they having proposed the subject, 
for a prize. Mr. A., being very much engaged, 
was with us but a few minutes. Mr. Leslie I 
was extremely pleased with. He is possessed of 
very prepossessing manners. His celebrity and 
that of Mr. Alston as professional men is daily 
gaining ground and they bid fair to fill part of 
the chasm which will be formed by the death 
of West, who is now much advanced in life. 

There is never a dearth of novelty to a 
stranger in the streets of London. Numerous 
ways are resorted to by the beggars to attract 
attention and gain a halfpenny. One poor 
fellow who had lost both his legs, has a board 
before him upon which he chalks in so elegant 
a manner that it would not disgrace a copper- 
plate engraver, any word that the spectator 
desires, beginning at the end and writing them 
bottom upward, thus jCbav siq; ui. Having often 
heard of " rag fair " and accidentally mention- 
[ 142 J 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

ing it at dinner, one of my fellow lodgers offered 
to be my guide thither. We accordingly went 
to that celebrated mart of cast-off garments. 
Just before we got there we were pestered with 
Jews in front of their shops who gave us press- 
ing invitations of " pleshe to valk in, Shur, and 
puy a shecond-hand coat shust as coot as new." 
When we arrived in the midst of the fair, a 
scene presented itself which almost baffles de- 
scription. Millions of cast-off habits, of every 
fashion and quality, and in all stages of decay 
were here exhibited for sale. In one part was 
seen a fellow striving to thrust himself into a 
coat, and in another an old hag cheapening a 
pair of worn-out shoes. I came away highly 
entertained with my visit to this place. 

Sunday, 30th. This day I passed at Cam- 
berwell grove and attended a church near that 
place. The preacher was extremely eloquent 
and delivered extempore a very pathetic and 
elegant discourse upon the necessity of our 
" living unto God," but most unfortunately his 
paying a greater attention to the displaying of 
a brilliant ring gave me an impression that he 
was one of those who " shewed us the steep and 
[ 143 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

thorny road to heaven while he the path of 
dalliance kept." My serious impressions were 
by this deportment in the preacher dissipated. 
The following day I went to the East India 
House for the purpose of viewing its museum 
of curiosities. The opulence of the company 
and the power they have acquired by their 
conquests in India have thrown into their pos- 
session the greatest and richest collection of 
eastern curiosities in the world. We were first 
conducted into the Library, containing a splen- 
did collection of Eastern literature, among 
which is a book of dreams in Tippoo Sahib's 
own hand-writing, the Poems of Hafiz, and 
innumerable other Indian, Chinese and Persian 
manuscripts. Here is also a collection of min- 
erals, shells, &c. In the next room are some 
Hindu idols, bricks from Babylon, a marble 
covered with characters from the same place 
and which is supposed to contain some matter 
relative to the history of that magnificent city. 
Many learned men have studied it to decipher 
it, but have not succeeded as the characters are 
totally unknown at the present day. In the 
same room is a curious piece of mechanism 
[ 144 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

representing a tiger having in his fangs a fig- 
ure dressed in the English costume. By turn- 
ing a handle in the manner of an organ the 
screeching of distress and the roaring of the 
beast are produced ; at the same time the hand 
of the man is moved to ward off the paws of 
the beast. Playing upon this instrument was 
Tippoo Sahib's chief amusement ! Enclosed in 
a glass case is a head of a tiger which stood at 
the foot of the sultan's throne ; it is of solid 
gold, the eyes and teeth being of crystal. It 
now lies on a carpet of crimson velvet studded 
with gold, which was used as a cover to the 
throne. The Chinese gardens in this apartment 
are very beautiful. The trees are of silver, the 
birds and beasts of gold, and the water of 
mother-of-pearl. We were also shown a medal 
struck for the Company by the celebrated 
Bolton of Birmingham. The workmanship of it 
is so exquisitely fine as to require a magnifying 
glass to discover the representation of a battle 
upon it which this was designed to commemo- 
rate. Several port-folios of views in India exe- 
cuted by the first artists and amounting to 
several hundred pictures were also shown to the 
[ 145 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

visitor. The collection of curiosities in this 
place is very grand, and the bare amount of the 
precious metals must he immense. 

In company with Dr. W. took a ride to 
Kensington Gardens, situated at the extremity 
of Hyde Park. It is by far the most beauti- 
ful promenade that London or its immediate 
vicinity affords. The grandeur and wildness of 
the woods more strongly reminded me of the 
American forest scenery than any other place I 
have seen, in England. There is a palace here 
which has nothing remarkable in its external 
appearance ; from the terrace in front is a fine 
view of lawn and a piece of water. Beyond, the 
woods are of such impenetrable thickness that 
a person would suppose he was a long distance 
from a city. The gardens contain three hundred 
and fifty acres laid out in charming walks, 
groves, etc. The trees are principally oak and 
chestnut. These gardens are open to the public 
except to liveried servants and persons carrying 
bundles. Park keepers are stationed at the gates 
to preserve order and decorum, and at proper 
distances are seats for the company. At the 
gates, several footmen in splendid liveries were 
[ 146 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

waiting for tbeir masters or mistresses who 
were here promenading. 

Being obliged to take Mr. Adams's passport 
to the Alien Office for the purpose of obtaining 
Lord Sidmouth's license to leave the country, 
I chanced to meet a friend on the way thither 
who informed me that a small douce would be 
a great facility in enabling me to get it, al- 
though the Alien Act expressly provides that 
they shall be given gratis. When I came to the 
office I received the pass from a man of gentle- 
manly appearance, who with many profound 
bows excused himself for making me wait, &c. 
&c. at the same time looking me in the face as 
if he were saying " you must be a stupid fellow 
if you don't understand me ! " I put four shil- 
lings into his hand and received many polite 
assurances as to the pleasure it would afford 
him to be of service to me in renewing the 
passports, and that if I wrote from Liverpool 
I might depend upon a speedy answer to my 
letter. It is true the law did not compel me to 
give the man anything, but if I had not, and it 
should have happened that I wished for a re- 
newal of the paper, it might have been delayed 
[ M7 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

and I had cause to regret not having paid the 
accustomed tribute. 

Since my residence in England some of the 
most important events in modern history have 
occurred, the most prominent of which is the 
downfall and captivity of Buonaparte. London 
has been agitated many times in consequence 
of reports that apartments had been fitted up 
in the Tower for his reception, and so much 
were these believed that some thousands of 
the populace waited a long time upon London 
Bridge in order to see him pass. It is now, how- 
ever, understood that he is to be sent to St. 
Helena, there to remain a prisoner for life. 
Thousands have gone from all parts of Eng- 
land to Plymouth to catch a glimpse of the 
disturber of the world. He is now confined on 
board of the Bellerophon Frigate, on board of 
which no one is allowed to go. The boats which 
daily sail around this vessel for the purpose of 
carrying persons to see him are estimated at 
two thousand. 

Sunday, 6th August. Parted with Mr. M.'s 
family at Camberwell Grove. During my stay 
in England they had paid every attention to 
[ 148 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

me, endeavoring to make my absence from 
home as pleasant as possible. It was with real 
regret that I took a last farewell of this family. 
One of the most serious counterbalances to the 
pleasure of travelling is that after having formed 
an acquaintance with those whom you would 
esteem through life you are obliged to part, 
and this without a hope of ever again meeting 
them ! 

Having been introduced a few weeks ago to 
a Mr. C, a fellow of Trinity College, Oxford, 
it luckily chanced that he was going there on a 
few days' visit, and hearing of my intention of 
taking that place into my route to Birmingham, 
very politely* invited me to join him and stop 
a day or two in that city. As such an opportu- 
nity was too fortunate to be declined, I ac- 
cepted the invitation and accordingly having 
taken our seats upon the top of the coach, we 
on Monday morning took our departure from 
London. Fortunately the day was fine, and as 
some rain had fallen the night previous we were 
not incommoded with the dust. We passed 
through Kew. The palace lay upon our right 
and appeared to be as devoid of elegance as all 
[ 149 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

the royal residences in this country are. We 
continued on through the neat village of Ham- 
mersley, and Slough. A little before we came 
to the latter place we had a charming view of 
Windsor Castle which, lay at about a mile dis- 
tant on our left. It is situated iipon an emi- 
nence from which is an extensive view. Its 
exterior appearance is much more elegant than 
any other palace I have seen. It is at present 
the residence of King George, who has always 
given the place a preference. Our route lay 
over Hounslow Heath (a barren and desolate 
spot, so much celebrated for the robberies com- 
mitted here), through Maidenhead to Henley 
on the Thames. Here we crossed this river 
over a stone bridge leading to the town, which 
is truly a charming place, possessing an air of 
neatness, with a fine situation which renders 
it superior to any other village I have seen in 
England. I regretted that the rapidity of our 
travelling did not permit me to pass a few 
hours in this pretty place. Ten miles this side 
Oxford we crossed the Isis and entered Dor- 
chester, — a dirty, mean-looking village. The 
entrance to Oxford inspires a favorable impres- 
[ 150 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

sion of that beautiful city, the towers of many 
churches and colleges are seen through the 
foliage of the fine trees with which this city 
abounds. After passing a handsome bridge we 
entered High Street, esteemed the most beauti- 
ful street in Europe. On the right is the front 
of Magdalen College, and it is adorned with 
the fronts of several other colleges and halls. 
My companion and myself alighted at the inn, 
and after we had deposited our baggage he hur- 
ried me away to a livery stable to look at some 
favorite horses which belonged to him. I soon 
found that Latin and Greek had but few 
charms for him when compared to his favorite 
amusements of hunting and racing. He kept 
three horses and about a dozen dogs for those 
purposes, nor was he alone in this, as there 
were many other animals here belonging to the 
fellows of the respective colleges. It being 
the long vacation, and but few collegians in 
the city, Oxford appeared quite dull. Mr. C. 
took me to his chambers in Trinity College, 
which were pleasantly situated. Attached to 
his college is a church of uncommon elegance. 
The ceiling is most exquisitely painted and the 
[ 151 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

altar adorned with some fine carved work in 
marble. In the garden belonging to the college 
is a secluded walk in the manner of an arbor, 
the top of it being formed by the intermingling 
of the branches of the lime tree. The hawthorn 
hedge which surrounds the ground is curiously 
cut so as to bear a resemblance to a board 
fence. In the New College church the painted 
windows are estimated as the first work of the 
kind in the kingdom. That from a design by 
Sir Joshua Reynolds is very fine. Many an- 
cient painted windows adorn this chapel. The 
colors of them are in the highest perfection 
although many hundred years have elapsed 
since they were painted. In a small cabinet 
adjoining the altar is kept the crosier which 
formerly belonged to William of Wykeham, 
one of the founders of the church. It is of sil- 
ver gilt surmounted with small gothic images. 
The altar piece of this church is also carved out 
of marble. The Theatre where all the prize 
poems are recited is a fine building. The ceil- 
ing of it is estimated a great curiosity, as it is 
entirely unsupported by pillars although its di- 
mensions contain 5600 square feet. It is painted 
[ 152 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

by Sir James Thornhill. The chairs used by 
the Allied sovereigns during their visit last 
year are in an ante-room. They are made of 
gold burnished with silk crimson velvet ! Near 
to the theatre is the Clarendon printing office, 
where Bibles and Prayer-books are printed. 
The expense of its erection was defrayed from 
the sale of Lord Clarendon's manuscript his- 
tory, which was given for that purpose. The 
Bodleian Library contains 35,000 volumes and 
60,000 manuscripts, as also a gallery with a 
large collection of pictures and busts. The ceil- 
ing is adorned with the arms of the respective 
colleges. Among the pictures are some copies 
of the cartoons of Raphael. An incident oc- 
curred here which made me smile. Mr. C, 
whose love of Greek and Latin was not exces- 
sively ardent, indignantly shaking his fist in the 
face of a bust of Homer exclaimed, " If it had 
not been for your writing that cursed hard 
book my brains would have escaped many a 
puzzling ! " Two windows in this gallery are 
entirely formed from the relics of painted win- 
dows from different parts of the kingdom which 
are most curiously cemented together. Oppo- 
[ 153 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

site here is Hertford College, now in a state of 
decay. Charles James Fox was a fellow of it. 
It now has but two or three belonging to it, and 
they are esteemed as eccentrics, and almost as 
ereat curiosities as the old edifice. The Rad- 
cliffe Camera is another fine building. It stands 
in the centre of a beautiful area. The architec- 
ture of it is admirable, particularly the staircase 
composed of stone and so formed as to appear 
unsupported. The books are arranged in cab- 
inets. From the dome, which you ascend by a 
stone cylindrical staircase, is an extensive view 
of the city and adjacent country. There is no 
place in the world where there are so many 
public buildings in so small a space as the city 
of Oxford, nor are there many which can vie 
with it in elegance ! On the floor of the library 
stand two marble candelabra of superb work- 
manship. They were found in the ruins of the 
Emperor Hadrian's palace at Tivoli. One of 
the principal embellishments to this city is the 
college gardens, as most of them have very large 
ones, laid out in charming walks : that of the 
Magdalen in particular is one mile and a half 
in length. 

[ 154 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

The following day, in company with Mr. C. 
and mounted on his horses, we took our way to 
Woodstock to visit Blenheim, the seat of the 
Duke of Marlborough. Woodstock is a small 
neat village, famed for its manufacture of 
leather and fine steel work. Hard by is the 
princely mansion of Blenheim, which stands in 
the midst of a park which contains 2700 acres 
of land and 300 of water. The walls are twelve 
miles round. You enter this park through a 
gate of the Corinthian order and are at once 
presented with a view of the mansion. Oppo- 
site is a lake having an elegant bridge thrown 
over it. Directly in front of this upon an emi- 
nence stands a lofty pedestal having upon it a 
statue of the great Duke. Upon it are recorded 
in marble his various achievements and the 
Acts of Parliament granting this place as a re- 
ward for his services. The interior of the house 
is superbly elegant. We were shown through 
the following apartments : the Hall, " Bow- 
window room," Duke's Dressing-room, East 
Drawing-room, Grand cabinet, Blue Drawing- 
room, State Drawing-room, Dining-room, Sa- 
loon, Green drawing-room, State bedchamber, 
[ 155 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Winter drawing- room, Library, Chapel, Thea- 
tre, and La Titian gallery ; the whole contain- 
ing an immense collection of statues, and paint- 
ings by the first artists, and otherwise furnished 
in a style of great splendour. The library is 
quite elegant. The number of volumes of books 
is 24,000. Iir^the chapel is a monument to the 
memory of the great duke and his duchess, and 
a very fine picture over the altar by some 
Dutch artist. The theatre is a pretty little 
place, capable of containing 200 persons. The 
scenery is in perfect order although there have 
been no performances here for twenty years. 
Far different, this reward for services, to our 
country, which even denies a monument to the 
memory of him who is acknowledged as her 
saviour ! 

We spent three hours in viewing this palace. 
On our return to Oxford the duke passed us in 
his carriage. He is an old man of 77 years of 
age, and is great grandson to the famous Duke. 
In the afternoon I mentioned to my companion 
the necessity of my going the next morning 
to Birmingham, &c. In reply he pressed me to 
stay a day or two longer, observing that Ox- 
[ 156 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

ford was far pleasanter than those damned cot- 
ton-spinning places. In the morning I took my 
leave and having mounted upon the box seat 
alongside the coachman, bid farewell to Ox- 
ford. I was much entertained by the coachman 
who was, as he informed me, a freeholder, and 
who took considerable interest in an election 
of a member of Parliament by distributing to 
those of his side the house handbills, a bundle 
of which he carried with him for the purpose. 
We changed horses at Stratford-upon-Avon, 
immortalized as the birthplace of Shakespere. 
While this was doing, curiosity impelled me 
to visit the house, which is one of the most 
wretched hovels I ever beheld, and is now used 
as a butcher's shop. An old woman (who, as 
she informed me, was a descendant of the poet) 
was my conductor. Many things which be- 
longed to the bard were shewn me, such as his 
chair, which is cut almost up for relics, a bench, 
sword, iron box, picture, linstock, table, candle- 
sticks, some coins, &c. &c. I continued my ride 
to Birmingham. The entrance to the town is 
quite pretty and quite agreeably disappointed 
me who had anticipated beholding a den fit 
[ 157 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

only for the Cyclops ! From seeing the interior 
of the place I am decidedly of opinion that it 
is preferable to Manchester and most other 
manufacturing towns (as a place of residence !). 
Here I went through a pin manufactory, and 
was surprised at the number of persons who 
are necessary to the formation of a single pin. 
As usual, here was a number of wretched little 
boys and girls confined at work from morn to 
night. 

Thomason's show rooms are considered as 
one of the " lions " of Birmingham. Here is 
exposed for sale almost every article which is 
made in the place. The rooms are fitted up in 
great taste, and the style in which the articles 
are displayed tempt almost every one who visits 
here to become a purchaser. The attendants 
are uncommonly polite in showing the articles 
to strangers. They were manufacturing in an 
outer room a copper vase modeled after a mar- 
ble one dug from the ruins of Herculaneum 
which is now deposited at Warwick Castle. 
This vase when done will cost £1500. The 
original is exquisitely carved and this is to 
be an exact copy. I did not visit any other 
[ 158 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

manufactories, as the proprietors of most of 
them are particularly averse to the introduc- 
tion of strangers, especially Americans. This 
is the same throughout England. The next 
morning set out for Liverpool upon the out- 
side of the coach. The early part of the day 
was remarkably fine, but at noon it began 
to rain, and I arrived early in the evening 
at Liverpool completely drenched by the tor- 
rents which poured down, the latter part of my 
journey. 

Finding that the ship in which I have taken 
my passage did not sail for a fortnight, I took 
lodgings instead of being at an inn. I have 
two rooms, a parlor and bedroom, for which I 
pay a very moderate sum compared to the inn 
charges. When I take my meals at my room, 
my landlady charges me the first cost for the 
articles, the expense for preparing them being 
included in the rent of the apartments. I found 
this to be a much more comfortable way of 
living than I had anticipated. Wishing to bathe 
I went as directed a small distance from town 
where a number of bathing machines is kept. 
These are drawn into the sea by a horse. These 
[ 159 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

machines are quite comfortable and the charge 
for using them moderate, being only sixpence. 
At a short distance from where I was there 
were some women bathing. They seemed not 
at all disturbed at a number of us being so near 
them. Although this is quite customary here, 
I think the indelicacy of it is not commend- 
able. Mr. W. of Warrington having heard of 
my arrival at Liverpool sent his son in a gig 
after me to go on a visit to his house. I re- 
turned with him and on Sunday dined at a 
country seat of Mr. A. G. at Walton, a short 
distance from Warrington. After dinner we 
took a short ride. The road was uncommonly 
pretty, running most of the way between the 
Duke of Bridgewater's canal and the River 
Mersey. At about five miles from Walton 
stands Halton Castle, now a ruin. One of its 
walls forms part of the wall to an inn, much 
resorted to as a place of recreation. The site 
of the hall is now a bowling green. Some of 
the window arches are in tolerable preservation 
and some few specimens of ornamented stone 
work still remain. The eminence upon which 
this ruin stands rises up almost perpendicularly. 
[ 160 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

The village of Halton directly underneath acids 
much to the beauty of the landscape. On the 
other side is a view of Norton Priory, stand- 
ing in a fine park, the seat of Sir Richard 
Brook. The view altogether is ver}^ extensive. 
When upon the walls it appeared like being 
in the centre of a vast panorama ; having no- 
thing to obstruct the view on every side the eye 
was presented with cultivated fields, woods, 
rivers, canals, and villages. At the entrance of 
the village the traveller is notified by an in- 
scription upon the castle walls that an inn is 
kept there. The road winds round the hill and 
leads to the top. There were several groups of 
lads and lasses seated upon the ruins of the 
walls, partaking of refreshments. I could not 
help drawing in my imagination the contrast 
between the scene and the scenes here exhibited 
a few centuries ago, when 

" From yon high tower the archer drew 
With steady hand the stubborn yew, 

While fierce in martial state, 
The mailed host in long array, 
With crested helms, and banners gay, 

Burst from the thundering gate." 

This castle was destroyed by Oliver Cromwell 
C 161 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

in the civil wars. There could not be a situa- 
tion better calculated for defence than this: 
there is no way by which a foe could approach 
undiscovered as the battlement commanded a 
view of the country to a long distance in every 
direction, and the steepness of the eminence 
rendered it almost an impossibility to storm the 
walls. Most of the strongholds of ancient days 
are remarkable for being erected in such situa- 
tions as rendered them inaccessible. One mile 
from here is the village of Runcorn. This place 
is much resorted to by the people of Manches- 
ter and Liverpool as a place of amusement. 
Here I saw for the first time an English steam- 
boat. Compared with our boats of the same de- 
scription they are as far behind in point of im- 
provement as our stagecoaches are to those of 
this country; nor are those boats which are upon 
the River Clyde in Scotland and which are 
much praised here to be (as I am informed) 
compared to those in America. The deficiency 
of improvement in both cases may be accounted 
for in their superiority of roads and number of 
population and the natural advantages of our 
rivers over theirs. 

[ 162 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

Monday, went to a fair or wake in the village 
of Winwick ; among the sports of this place 
was a bear bait. Bruin after being muzzled 
was tied to a stake and the dogs were set upon 
him. I was at first shocked at the inhumanity 
of depriving the poor animal of resistance and 
then thus tormenting him, but I soon discov- 
ered that the bear was fully equal to his adver- 
saries. The first dog set upon him was a large 
bull-dog, to whom he gave the " hug a la fran- 
cois " and sent him off howling. So well was 
he satisfied of his reception that all the coaxings 
and threatenings of his master could not induce 
him to repeat it. Many others were served in 
a similar manner without the bear's being in the 
least injured, as his hair was grown to such an 
immoderate length as to entirely prevent the 
least laceration of the flesh from the dogs' teeth. 
The baiting had continued for some time until 
the bear grew angry, when he broke his rope 
and after laying his keeper sprawling set off in 
full chase after the mob of men, women and 
children who fled over hedges and ditches in all 
directions. The ludicrous scene that then was 
presented would require (to give an adequate 
[ 163 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

idea of it) the pencil of Morland. 1 The rest of 
the amusements were similar to those of our 
fairs. The church in this village is quite an- 
cient. It is adorned with a handsome spire. 
Upon the base of the tower is sculptured the 
figure of a hog with a bell around his neck. 
The design of this curious figure I could not 
learn. While we were viewing the church, a 
person (whom we afterwards found to be the 
head gardener to the rector) very politely in- 
vited us to view the grounds of the Rectory, 
which was opposite the church. He conducted 
us round the park through the shrubbery into 
the gardens where he treated us with some fine 
peaches and nectarines, and showed us the way 
back to the village through another part of the 
grounds. At parting we wished to make him a 
present for his civility, which he refused. This 
I mention as being a singular case, as it was 
the first money I offered in England to a guide 
or servant which was refused. The rectory be- 
longs to the Earl of Derby and is estimated as 
the richest living in this part of England. 
At Warrington is a manufactory of files. The 

1 George Morland, 1763-1804 ; English painter. 
[ 164 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

proprietor of it very politely showed me the 
different processes of the making of them. The 
teeth of the files are cut by a chisel, and it is 
astonishing with what precision and regularity 
the workmen move their hands even while look- 
ing off their work. Some of these files were of 
such exquisite fineness that it required a glass 
to discover the teeth. These are for jewellers' 
and watchmakers' use. The steel is first soft- 
ened to receive the impression of the chisel, 
and afterwards hardened by being plunged 
while red-hot into a prepared liquid. The pro- 
prietor complained sadly of the drunkenness of 
his workmen. It was now Tuesday, and many 
of them had not yet made their appearance. He 
presumed they had not spent all their last week's 
wages, as they seldom came from the alehouse 
until it was entirely expended. Being some 
time with the proprietor and conductor of an 
extensive manufactory, I had a fair opportunity 
of observing the habits of the workmen, and 
can without any hesitation declare that with 
very few exceptions they are of the worst kind ; 
their only care and ambition seems to be to earn 
a daily pittance which they invariably spend 
[ 165 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

the most part of at the alehouse. This arises 
from their ignorance ; not knowing the common 
rudiments of learning, their only enjoyment is 
beastly indulgence and insensibility. 

On Wednesday, with Mr. A. took a short 
tour into Wales. We stopped with our gig at 
Chester and proceeded on foot along the banks 
of the River Dee to Eaton House, the seat of 
Earl Grosvenor. I cannot do justice to the de- 
scription of this fairy structure. It is but just 
finished. The house is of the gothic order and 
finished both interior and exterior, in a superb 
manner. The furniture corresponds to the build- 
ing, and the offices around it are of the same 
order of architecture. It is in the centre of an 
extensive park. If the ancient buildings the 
ruins of which still remain visible, were at their 
erection as truly beautiful as Eaton House (and 
judging from those I have seen, I have no rea- 
son to question that they were) one of the least 
pretensions to taste must sincerely deplore that 
barbarism which tempted the destruction of 
these ornaments to Great Britain. We walked 
back to Chester, and after having dined resumed 
our ride. Shoi-tly after leaving that place we 
[ 166 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

came into Wales and our first stop was at the 
village of Ha warden. In the park and near 
the mansion of Sir Stephen Glynn stand the 
ruins of a castle which is so embosomed in the 
midst of a wood as to render the top only visible. 
The owner has erected a wall around to pre- 
serve the ruin from further decay. The park 
is an intermixture of hill and dale. One of the 
valleys is very picturesque, having a small white 
cot overspread with vines at the bottom of it. 
As we continued our way the road became more 
mountainous, and afforded many fine views of 
the sea-coast. At the foot of the hills we over- 
took an interesting little Welsh girl who with 
her brother had been upon an errand to a neigh- 
boring village. We asked some information re- 
specting the road. This she gave us and in re- 
turn requested permission to run behind the 
gig. During the run, which lasted a mile or 
more, we had much conversation with her, 
highly amused at the quickness and propriety 
of her replies to our numerous inquiries. She 
as well as her brother spoke Welsh as well as 
English. I asked her if she would go home with 
me. She said she would if I would stop and 
[ 167 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

" let iter see her father and mother a bit first." 
Her name was Martha Owings. She was quite 
handsome and had a peculiar sharp, although 
innocent and artless manner which interested 
us very much. A short distance from the road 
side was a cluster of cottages, into one of which 
she entered after dropping us a curtsey and 
bidding us goodbye ! We soon arrived at Holy- 
well, and as soon as we alighted, as our time 
was limited, found our way to St. Winifred's 
Well. This is called one of the wonders of the 
world. It throws out one hundred tons of water 
every minute. The stream proceeding from it 
is sufficient to supply a number of mills and 
manufactories erected close by. The water is 
used for bathing in rheumatic complaints. 
It is so remarkably clear that the minutest 
object is distinctly seen at the bottom of a very 
deep basin. There is a gothic building over 
the well upon the roof of which are hung the 
crutches of those who have been so relieved 
of their complaint by the application of the 
water as to enable them to offer them as a tes- 
timony of its virtues. We descended into the 
body of the bath by a flight of stone steps and 
[ 168 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

found one of the baths occupied by a young 
lady who was not in the least disturbed at our 
entrance, but continued her employment. One 
of the nymphs of the fountain who was as ugly 
as sin and almost as old, presented us with a 
glass of water direct from the spring. I could 
observe nothing extraordinary in the taste of 
it. There is a legendary tale respecting this 
well which requires no small share of faith to 
believe. It is said that St. Winifred, having 
made a vow of chastity, was afterwards addressed 
by a heathen prince who, finding his passion 
unrewarded, in a rage cut off her head which 
rolled down the hill and stopped at the very 
place where the spring now is and which then 
sprang up ! One of the saints of the church 
took the head up and placed it on her body. It 
immediately re-united and she lived many years 
afterwards. 

Holywell is pleasantly situated upon the side 
of a mountain from which is a view of the sea 
and of the English shore: — near it the River 
Dee flows into the Channel. In its vicinity are 
numerous lead mines, which are very produc- 
tive and afford the proprietors great incomes. 
[ 169 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

The income of Earl Grosvenor from this source 
alone is £80,000 per annum. If I were to form 
an opinion from the small specimen this jaunt 
afforded me of the Welsh inns, I should with- 
out the slightest hesitation say they were quite 
inferior to the inns of England. The waiter at 
the best inn in Holywell was one of the most 
polite, palavering dogs I ever saw. Upon our 
requesting to be called in the morning he as- 
sured us (to use his own expressions) " that 
we might rely upon it that everything should 
be done according to our wishes," at the same 
time bountifully pledging his honor that the 
hostler should have our horse in readiness at 
4 o'clock, the hour appointed. When I awoke 
in the morning it was past 4, and no waiter 
had made his appearance. I descended into the 
stable yard and could not find the hostler, but 
the noise I made disturbed his understrapper 
who slept in the hayloft. Feeling a little angry 
at thus being neglected I addressed myself to 
him as being the cause of it, and after scolding 
away for some time discovered from the va- 
cancy of the fellow's countenance that he did 
not understand a word of English. Finding we 
[ HO ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

could do no better we tackled the horse in our- 
selves and proceeded back by the same road we 
came, to Warrington. The next day, left that 
place and arrived at my quarters at Liverpool. 
Being obliged to go to the custom house to 
obtain a clearance as a passenger in the Liver- 
pool Packet, I experienced a great delay from 
the inattention of the officers. These officers 
are universally complained of by every one who 
has any business to transact at the Custom 
house. Those who attend on board the vessels 
are a vile set, whose appearance denotes pov- 
erty and who for the pitiful bribe of a shilling 
will assist in smuggling anything on shore. 

At the close of my journal it may not be 
improper to make a few remarks respecting 
the people of Great Britain. I found them 
hospitable in the extreme, zealous in paying 
every attention to a stranger, and this so deli- 
cately expressed as not to leave an impression 
that they had conferred an obligation. At 
breakfast you generally find tea and toast. The 
manner of preparing the tea is different from 
ours. They either have an urn on the table or 
[ 171 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

a small kettle upon the grate, thus keeping the 
water hot. They consider "steeping" it by the 
fire as unnecessary. Upon the whole I think 
this way preferable to ours, as the tea is al- 
ways hot. Meat is scarcely ever introduced upon 
their breakfast tables. I have often made the 
ladies stare at my description of an American 
breakfast, particularly when I named over some 
of the etceteras, such as pickles, apple-sauce, 
potatoes, &c. The dining hour is somewhere 
about 4 o'clock. Their table is not spread at 
this meal unlike ours, but you are never asked 
to drink before you sit down to dinner. Soon 
after the dessert and wine, tea is served in an- 
other apartment, when you meet the ladies 
who always retire when the wine begins to move 
round. In the evening at ten or eleven o'clock 
a supper is brought in, and afterwards liquors 
with hot and cold water to mix them with. 
There is so trifling a difference between their 
customs and ours that a stranger feels but little 
inconvenience in the society of Englishmen. 

Business was my only object in visiting Eng- 
land. At my leisure moments I noted down the 
foregoing observations which I wish considered 
[ 172 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

as the casual ones of a stranger. I have endea- 
voured as much as possible by associating 
with Englishmen to obtain correct ideas of 
their country, still I am sensible that many 
things appeared to me different from what they 
otherwise would have done had I had sufficient 
leisure to have made further researches. I how- 
ever trust that these observations are divested 
of prejudice other than that honest and rational 
one which inevitably arises in the breast of one 
sincerely attached to his native land. I am not 
conscious of having like the traveller in New 
Jersey (as related in Salmagundi) noted down 
all the people of a town as fat and cross-eyed 
merely because the landlord and waiter were 
so. Respecting England there is much to ad- 
mire and much to dislike, yet the former pre- 
dominates so far that I have no hesitancy in 
saying that if I were not an American I should 
wish to be an Englishman. The Americans are 
not in the habit of viewing England in the light 
in which she should be seen. We either repre- 
sent her as too faulty or too faultless; one 
party represents her as striving to destroy our 
country by every means in her power, and 
[ 173 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

pains are taken to persuade the people that the 
inhabitants are almost to a man inimical to the 
prosperity of America. I am satisfied by my 
intercourse with Englishmen and from many 
conversations I have had with them respecting 
the late unhappy contest, that they were op- 
posed to it, and that had their government been 
purely elective like ours they would have thrown 
the same obstacles in the way of their ministry 
in prosecuting it as the opposition of the United 
States did towards Mr. Madison and his party. 
I have never seen one who did not deprecate a 
quarrel with us. I wish that the same senti- 
ments respecting England more generally pre- 
vailed in the United States than they do, and 
that we were not so accustomed to hear such 
intemperate language towards the people of 
England. On the other hand, the Federalists 
are apt to imagine that England is perfect. 
These feelings arise from the commercial inter- 
course which the Northern States have more 
immediately had with her ; and from the habit 
of considering her as their mother country, they 
look upon her faults with the same feelings as 
a child would those of a parent. As to the oft- 
[ 174 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

told magnanimity which some warm advocates 
of her say she displays towards America, I be- 
lieve it is ideal, and that her Government shows 
none but what is perfectly consonant to her 
own interest. Self-interest governs nations as 
well as individuals! The government is un- 
doubtedly jealous of our manufactures and more 
especially so of our navy, yet that jealousy car- 
ries not with it that deadly animosity so often 
expressed by our Jacobins. Her existence de- 
pends upon the welfare of trade and commerce. 
Whenever the period arrives that the manu- 
facturing interest decays, from that moment I 
date her declension ! 

Having closed my concerns, on the 8th of 
September went on board the Liverpool Packet, 
which dropped down the river, but owing to the 
lightness of the wind was obliged to anchor op- 
posite the rock. My fellow passengers' names 
are White, Barnett, Prince, Todd, Hall, Hay- 
ward, and Aiken. 

9th Continued at anchor. 

10th In the same situation. In the after- 
noon a party of us went on shore and bathed. 

11th. No prospect of a fair wind, nor any 
[ 175 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

encouragement from the pilot that we shall 
have one very soon. I cannot conceive a more 
irksome situation than to be thus detained. 

12th Tried this morning to pass the rock, 
but were unsuccessful. I was awakened by the 
pilot's exclaiming " Let go the anchor ! " It 
sounded harsher in my ears than thunder. 
After breakfast we all went on shore and 
amused ourselves with rambling about until 
dinner time, soon after which we weighed 
anchor and bade farewell to the little Island. 
At 6 o'clock Mr. Ford, the custom house offi- 
cer, with two or three gallows-looking fellows 
having lanterns with them came on board to 
search our baggage and examine our crew. 
One of them came into my stateroom and told 
me it was a pity that I should trouble myself 
to open my trunk and hoped that I would give 
him a shilling to enable him to drink my 
health and a pleasant passage. This I did, 
when he at once told Ford that all was correct 
in my baggage. After getting their fees they 
all departed in good humour, having, as they 
expressed it " done their duty." The " Milo " 
passed us just at sundown. She kept at a 
[ 176 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

small distance ahead most of the evening, which 
was enlivened by a brilliant moon. 

13th Today the wind has been ahead but 
the weather continues delightfully pleasant. 
This relieves in a way the tediousness of con- 
finement. Our employments to pass away the 
time are various ; some are reading and writ- 
ing in the cabin, while others are pacing the 
deck in conversation. 

14th and 15th. Beating about near the Tus- 
car Light, myself and some of my companions 
very sick. 

17th. A gale of wind with the uncomfort- 
able assurance that we were on a lee shore 
and the tide driving us upon it. The captain 
was extremely anxious all day, scarcely stir- 
ring from the deck. Just at 5 in the afternoon 
the wind instantaneously changed, and threw 
the ship aback. All hands were called to ex- 
tricate her from the perilous situation, which 
was quickly effected, when we had the pleasing 
satisfaction that we were running from a 
dangerous shore. 

18th. Light winds and fair, but made very 
little progress in our voyage. 
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ENGLAND IN 1815 

19th. About seven in the morning spoke the 
ship " Indian Trader " from Jamaica, seven 
weeks out. Gave the crew some newspapers 
and potatoes. 

20th. The wind fair, and going at the rate 
of 8 knots. This evening the appearance of 
the setting sun was uncommonly beautiful 
and grand. 

21st. Wind blowing fresh but fair. The ship 
rolled very much and shipped some seas, which 
afforded much amusement to us in beholding 
the agility of the old cook who tried to escape 
them by dodging into his caboose. 

22nd, 23rd, 24th, 25th & 26th. A gale of 
wind from the Northwest. 

27th. The wind tolerably fair, but the small 
progress we have made in our voyage is truly 
discouraging. Were it not for the pleasant so- 
ciety aboard the time would indeed hang heavy 
on my hands. It is singular that all of us pas- 
sengers, eight in number, are Bostonians. Six 
were born in that town and four were school' 
fellows together. 

From this time until the 18th of October the 
wind continued dead ahead. On that day it 
[ 178 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

came partly fair and enabled us to lay almost 
on our course. 

On the 19th in the morning in lat. 40, long. 
40, passed by a small earthen barrel, but being 
under full sail could not get it. It gave rise to 
many speculations among us, such as the possi- 
bility of its containing letters from persons in 
a shipwrecked vessel. 

20th. The wind fair but increased to a tre- 
mendous gale. The ship was laid to, but having 
moderated toward night we proceeded on our 
course. 

21st. At 12. o'clock we were all electrified 
by the man at the masthead crying out " a boat 
ahead ! " Sail was instantly taken in and pre- 
parations to lower the boat made when we dis- 
covered it to be the wreck of a vessel of about 
80 or 90 tons burden, which had apparently 
been stripped of everything that was valuable. 
The hatch was off and the only article upon deck 
was an old water cask. Her cabin windows were 
washed out and an old sail hung over them, 
apparently for the purpose of keeping the 
water out. She appeared to be quite light, and 
her bottom was much covered with barnacles. 
[ 179 ] 



ENGLAND IN 1815 

22nd. Wind still fair. About twelve dis 
covered a sail under our lee bow. She fired a 
gun and made us bear down upon them. She 
proved to be the English Gun Brig " Cora," 
five weeks out from New Providence. Supplied 
them with Steel's Army & Navy list and some 
newspapers, also some vegetables for their sick. 
They sent us in return a fine green turtle and 
six bottles of spirit. 

23rd. Calm in the morning, but at ten o'clock 
a fine breeze sprang up which wafted us along 
at 8 knots. We observed several flocks of birds 
and some shoals of fish, which gave us notice 
of the approach to land. Among the fish were 
some of the flying species, which resembled a 
swallow in skimming the surface of the water. 
Toward night the wind increased into a violent 
gale, and blew tremendously. At the same time 
it was so dark that it was impossible to see 
from one side the ship to the other. The ap- 
pearance of the sea was truly beautiful. Our 
vessel seemed to be making her way through a 
mass of liquid fire. 

25th. This day it blew a violent gale of wind, 
at times increased by heavy squalls. One took 
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ENGLAND IN 1815 

the foreyard short off, another took the staysail 
overboard. It abated at twelve o'clock, when 
all hands were employed in repairing- damages. 
By night a new yard was got up and everything 
looked a little more ship-shape. The captain 
had suffered exceedingly with his fatigue and 
our ill luck. 

From this time until our arrival at Cape Ann 
on the 9th November, nothing remarkable hap- 
pened. I got into Boston at 8 at night, and 
found all friends in good health, although al- 
most despairing of ever seeing me again. 




APR 8 3913 



ENGLAND 

IN 

1815 

BALLARD 



UBRARV « CONGMSS 
I 




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